Real Vintage? L.A. Frocks and The Dukes of Melrose

Ruben Panis Gown, 1980s. Sold at The Way We Wore or her 1stdibs store.

With vintage trending, I knew it was only a matter of time before, yes reality T.V. would merge with the historical garment biz. Second Time Around in Soho was featured on their own show, but they really deal with newer consigned designer/couture. These two new shows about vintage have just released: L.A. Frocks and The Dukes of Melrose.  I think that both are fun to watch, especially if you are addicted to vintage like I am, but L.A. Frocks- which based on the goings on of the vintage institution The Way We Wore stands out.  Just that fact that she knows and appreciates a Seminole jacket-which I recognized on her while watching, means she knows textiles. See images below.

Doris looking for good vintage in a 40s-50s Seminole jacket, rights reserved by Smithsonian channel.

Doris Raymond is extremely relateable and full of knowledge. It is a great show for the seller and buyer of vintage. As a seller viewing, it is a comfort knowing that she started in flea markets and has indeed been doing this a long time. She has elevated her eye and accentuated her talent for selecting items from estate sales, auctions, other dealers, vintage shows, and private closets.  This cultivation of a brand and archive is important. I have learned editing is central, you really do have to have a gift in a way to just sort through "old" to find the gold. Clients don't want to sift through old stuff or they would be in thrift store diggin.   Her experience shows, in episode 1 when she passes up both a 30s Chanel due to added zippers and a not so right Pioret -which is hard to do. She shows the importance of thinking about resale and condition - look at her clip on arm pit stains for instance on the Smithsonian channel website.  This is the non glam side of things, but so important. As we speak- I am dealing with restoring a 60s Pucci blouse with some weak areas and hand washing some older cottons now.  Not to mention my dry cleaning bill!

For those who collect or are new to vintage she provides eye candy in terms of the clothing featured. Her knowledge on care, makers, designs, and era appeals to the novice and seasoned wearer alike.   The store inventory clearly shows that she has been in the "real" vintage trenches and survived! She has the stock correctly sorted by era and price. This makes her spot accessible to the every day shopper, stylists, and celebs, as well as designers for inspiration (don't even get me started on her designer inspiration room next door which I had heard of by word of mouth). Plus, I think she is friends with Kelly Cutrone -so she can't be a bore!  In summary, for the vintage seller if you have to pick a show to watch out of the two this is it.  It shows the everyday, as well as the tools to be successful such as editing and the process of our endless search. Relief is found in her triumphs during the show. Not to mention the history of the celebs who have worn garments in the past, and the introduction to the current ones who love vintage. The show's detailing of the function of the clothing today, whether on Glee or Dita Von Teese is appealing. Plus, who couldn't watch Dita -she's like your very own vintage pin up girl-right there trying on frocks made for her body type. The scene or her trying on 40s-50s couture is like porn for vintage lovers.   If you look at the two networks hosting the shows- The Smithsonian channel is our provider for L.A. Frocks versus the more fluffy reality extravaganza which is Bravo the styles are clear. You can watch the first episode of L.A. Frocks here.

Alaia belt, Decades Inc., Shop here. Image Decades Inc, rights reserved.

The Dukes of Melrose is a spotlight on the owners of Decades in L.A. In a way both stores are really credited with making vintage glamourous and removing the stereotype of dirty old clothing. Decades, Inc. is well known in the circles. They both do what good dealers should do, which is present good sturdy, cleaned, or treated garments ready to be worn or collected.  The banter between the two owners, Cameron Silver and Christos Garkinos is endearing. The owners of decades have been in the vintage business a long time and do have the experience and know how....Their salon style boutique is great to look at and inspires the seller and buyer visually.  That said, you will find pieces from 2011 in Decades. The first episode focuses on the celebs closets and uses of vintage on the red carpet during award season.  Thus, the focus on the glam of fashion, over the history is evident.  Not that this isn't fun to watch but these are definitely two different stores and shows.   Find latest episodes and photographs here.

In a way the show sells their huge inventory and vintage a little short. If you look at their store website you see true vintage although they sell newer items that have been worn and sort of traded in for the next new season's look. Decades also work with Dita and have a great little Dita Von Teese Collection up http://www.shopdecadesinc.com/.  As far as shops both have designer and couture items. Doris shines with her true vintage designer/couture finds such as dresses and gowns from the 20s-80s (although I think she carries a few older pieces) and unique textiles in general.  Decades stands out for their stock of couture dresses 60s-90s, as well as men's vintage and their designer accessories. They have very modern feel and their curated store lets you know who they are. This is also true of The Way We Wore but her vibe again being more true vintage, rare, historical garments that are current and wearable for women.

1980s Dior Couture Cuff. Shop Decades here. Image Decades Inc, rights reserved.