Estate Jewelry and The Country

 Antique Cameos, J.E. Heaton Jewelers. Joyce always seems to have a good selection.

Outside the limits of New York city exists a world called the Hudson Valley, rolling farms, horses, artists, and the ever enduring river. About an hour and half from NYC, is Millbrook a sleepy little town with the cutest historic village and a relaxed way of life. It boasts "Horse country" estates, locals, and New Yorkers trying to escape into that slower pace.  This is where we find J. E. Heaton jewelers.

1940s Fur Clip, Earrings, and ring/ 14K and Citrine, rubies.

This woman owned business in the heart of the village, brings a refreshing mix of older, custom, as well as new fine quality pieces.  Joyce is descended from store owners in a way, ( she has an interesting historic image hanging up of the Heaton Shoes store circa 1900.  Her store has a boutique feel with a clean aesthetic and a quite well curated estate section. This section's focus seems to be that of the art deco period and the Victorian.

Victorian Gold examples from the shop, last image shows cuff links transformed into earrings.

She can often be caught wearing stunning Victorian gold pieces from her own collection.  She both finds and well as consigns these unique estate pieces from local families and other sources.

Group of three late Victorian bouquet diamond pins.

Her eye for quality pieces is obvious when looking at her vintage Taxco items, Victorian gold, Edwardian and art deco diamonds. She was even lucky enough to have sold many diamond pieces from the estate of a real Ziegfeld gal.

Bracelet, art deco 20s example from the private collection of a Ziegfeld Follies  girl's descendant.

It was her personal array of Victorian pieces she often modeled, that led me to ask where her love of estate and Victorian fine pieces came from? She wanted to answer that question in the form of a letter to her mother which paints a lovely and personal view concerning how her eye for the pieces was molded.

Dear Momma,

I am so thankful for everything you gave me, including your love of jewelry.

One of my earliest memories is of you getting dressed to go to a party. I climbed on top of the big bed and watched, fascinated by all the doings of adults. With your hair done up, and your makeup on, you carefully lifted an evening gown over your head, letting it fall gracefully. On went the heels. A final primping, and then a quick spritz of hair spray followed by perfume. Then it happened: THE drawer was opened. Out came a series of the most magnificent, shiny adornments I’d ever seen. One by one you put them in place and checked your reflection in the mirror, smiling softly as you looked at me watching you.

When I was eight, you gave me a real gold ring with a garnet. I loved the way it looked. I loved that it made me feel grown up. I took that ring off when I was carving my Halloween pumpkin that year and lost it among the orange innards, never to be found again. We looked for days and days.

When I was fifteen years old, you gave me an unusual ring from the safe. It had belonged to a long ago family member. It was a gold band with sections cut out of it, like a pie crust. Barely visible inside was woven hair. I’d never seen anything like it... I was intrigued by the use of hair as a remembrance of a loved one. Why did they do this? How did they do this?

When I was seventeen, you came home from the Pleasant Valley Auction Hall with a beautiful gold bracelet. It was made up of links that became a Chinese dragon, with a ruby in the eye. I was dazzled by the beauty and artistry of the piece. It was a moment when I knew we shared the same taste.

Christmas one year you gave me a Victorian love knot ring with a tiny turquoise stone in the center. I loved the intricate way the loops of gold fell over each other. Later that year, for my eighteenth birthday, you gave me a Victorian engagement ring. It had an unusually cut stone (which I now know was an old mine cut), held in place by regal looking prongs. Inside were the initials of my great-grandmother, Lavinia Ida Pray and her husband-to-be, Charles Duncan. I feel as though they are with me when I wear that ring.

Dearest Momma, is it any wonder I love what you loved? When I look at fine estate jewelry it takes me back to the joyful moments we shared. I only wish you were here now to see what your love has lead to...

Thank you.

Joyce from J.E. Heaton Jewelers, Inc.

Art Deco Diamond engagement ring, J.E. Heaton Jewelers. 

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The Costume Jewelry Collection of Barbara Berger:Taking on the World with Fashion Jewelry

Trifari, 40s Fruit Salad Bracelet.PHOTO CREDIT: © Pablo Esteva

What attracts us wearers and collectors of jewelry to costume pieces? Many important costume jewelry collections are owned by those who can certainly afford the real thing, Barbara herself was the daughter of a diamond merchant/jeweler.   One is free to re-imagine themselves when they wear it. That is why I wear it and the bigger the better. I personally have always thought why wear jewelry if you can't enjoy it or see it?  I love ethnic designs/statement pieces and Iris Apfel has always been an icon to me. I came to find out this adoration of the statement piece and Iris, I also shared with Barbara as well. Costume jewelry lets the design and intention really shine. As Barbara pointed out, "the construction is often similar to that of fine pieces", She painted an image to me during her talk, that she feels there seems to be no bounds to it and that it sort of is freeing or liberating. 

Elsa Schiaparelli, 1938.Ostrich pendants. Circus collection.PHOTO CREDIT: © Pablo Esteva

Barbara Berger has put together one amazing collection and David McFadden, Chief Curator, and Harrice Simons Miller, Guest Curator along with Dorothy Globus, Curator of Exhibitions have organized one stunning show.  Harrice Simons Miller is a consultant to Christies and was brought in to appraise and catalog Elizabeth Taylor's costume jewelry as well. She wrote the first book I ever bought about collecting and valuing costume jewelry. Collectors may also remember her fab book on Kenneth Jay Lane jewelry!

Miriam Haskell, late 50s example from the Berger collection. Also featured in Miriam Haskell Jewelry by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff. It is a sort of Haskell holy grail piece. PHOTO CREDIT: © Pablo Esteva

Barbara's life work and passion spoke for themselves at the opening and her discussion with the curators at MAD museum New York. This collection has never been shown in the United States.  I was there, practically running in, as the doors opened on the show.  The full scale of her archive reaches beyond 4,000 pieces and growing. The exhibition houses 450 well chosen iconic examples including jewelry by: Lanvin, Miriam Haskell, Valentino, Coppola e Toppo, Pucci, Kenneth Jay Lane, Countess Zoltowska/Cis, Oscar de La Renta, Mimi Di N. Balenciaga, Maison Gripoix, Marcel Boucher, Trifari, Pierre Cardin, Chanel (she owns one of the most important collection of Chanel jewelry),David Mandel, Lawrence Vrba, Iradj Moini,Joseff-Hollywood, Robert Sorrell, Elsa Schiaparelli and many more. The list includes fantastic vintage examples and recent new designers.  If you are a collector or wearer you may have become a little dizzy at the thought, I know I did when I entered the show. I was literally drunk on jewelry from costume to couture to everything in between.

Chanel feather necklace, Barbara Berger collection. Sarara Vintage image.

Barbara, began collecting after her mother's death at about age 13. She acquired Chanel earrings at a Parisian flea market. They reminded them of her mother, her style, essence and way of putting herself together.  From the beginning, you can see that fashion jewelry meant something to her on a personal level. She remembers where she got each piece and their stories.  She falls in love with the presence and aesthetic of each example of the jewelry she purchases for the collection. It has to speak to her, be a statement piece, scale and size matters..... She made it clear at her talk that she doesn't just buy a piece for the collection because it is signed, it has to have that something that makes it great.  She wasn't focused on the history but the essence.  She even admits that for the exhibit she left the historical research to Harrice.  

As Barbara stated at the "All the Brilliant Facets" talk:

"The size of the jewelry is important, because jewelry gives a woman power, it has to be dramatic. A woman has to feel she can take on the world.  I collect dream jewelry". (Barbara Berger, All the Brilliant Facets").

Mimi Di N, 60s-70s. PHOTO CREDIT: © Pablo Esteva

Barbara's passion as well as creative insight can be seen through this very extensive collection. She will be donating some examples to the Museum of Arts and Design at 2 Columbus Circle, permanent archives in NYC. Now with the publication of Fashion Jewelry the Collection of Barbara Berger, published by Assouline,  Barbara has a beautifully photographed accompaniment to the exhibition. I purchased a signed copy of the book at the exhibit and it is indeed a visual feast.

Cover jewelry by Daniel Von Weinberger, 2008-9.PHOTO CREDIT: © Pablo Esteva

During her talk at Mad on Thursday, she and the rest of the panel involved, including Harrice, illuminated the history of the collection and how it was organized.  Harrice's story of how costume jewelry, as a phrase, was born through Hobe's relationship with costume design/film was interesting. "It was jewelry for the costumes, made for Florenz Ziegfeld"  she said.  Barbara also painted a colorful story of her life through jewelry.  Many of her friends, interesting comrades, and fellow jewelry lovers were present. Designers whose jewelry is in the exhibition Iradj Mioni, David Mandel and Robert Sorrell were counted among the attendees.  Iradj and Robert were very interesting to talk to in their own right and I can see why Barbara counts them among friends.  It was clear the designers themselves are important to her, as she included living and contemporary makers in the exhibit. The show represents around 80 designers.  She wore stunning large Iradj earrings and one of her own designs in the form of a brooch pictured below, as she talked to the audience. 

Barbara Berger, left with me before the discussion, image Sarara Vintage

Chanel piece from the Mad Museum exhibit. Berger collection. Sarara Vintage image.

Barbara's credo spoken at the talk was to mix fine with costume jewelry and to try to always wear earrings. "Ears are a very sexy part of a woman's body".   She mused about the hunt, the creation of her collection, and the genius of Miriam Haskell. 

Frank Hess, Miriam Haskell 1954.PHOTO CREDIT: © Pablo Esteva

                                                                   The Exhibit:

Entry way image, contemporary designer body armor style necklace. Sarara Vintage image.

William DeLillo necklace, vintage 1969. From the exhibit. Image Sarara Vintage.

Exhibit entrance, displays. Sarara Vintage, rights reserved.

Pucci by Coppola e Toppo necklaces, 1960s. Sarara Vintage image.

My impression from the beginning was that they created a jewelry show that relayed the history and passion of costume and fashion. The displays were so well done, hanging examples in cases allowed one to see the pieces from all angles, large necklaces were hand knotted onto plum backdrops and hung seamlessly, cases allowed the pieces to be viewed without distraction or clutter.  There were even drawers full, a bonus selection to look through so to speak, covered in lucite cases. I do want to make it clear that the pieces in the drawer are not part of Barbara's collection, which was also mentioned to me at the talk as well.  They belong to the museum's permanent collection just to keep it clear as you view them. 

1960s Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne examples. Barbara Berger collection, MAD museum.

Valentino, 1970s. Made by Coppola e Toppo. Exhibit example. Sarara Vintage image.

Stunning 1920s-30s examples. Barbara Berger Collection. Sarara Vintage image.

1980s Chanel pendant, one of my favorite pieces. Sarara Vintage image, right reserved.

Miriam Haskell. Barbara Berger Collection. Sarara Vintage image.

David Mandel, 2000. Necklace detail. From exhibit. Sarara Vintage image.

Paco Rabanne, vintage necklace 1980s-90s. Barbara Berger exhibit.

Chanel section at the exhibit, various Maison Gripoix for Chanel examples featured.

Maggy Rouff, 50s-60s. Made by Maison Gripoix. Another favorite of mine from the exhibit. Sarara Vintage image.

Maison Gripoix, 2000. PHOTO CREDIT: © Pablo Esteva

I hope you enjoyed the exclusive images from inside the event and quotes by Barbara from her talk. I hope to finish up an interview with her at a future date, when she is back from her travels. Stay tuned as I'll repost another article if that comes to fruition.  My advice if you are captivated by the images and depth of the show presented here, would be to take a boat, plane, carriage, walk no run to the show before it closes.   I have included various examples not in the text, and there are many others in both the text and exhibit still to see. The exhibit is truly a break from the mundane into a fantasy world of paste stones, cut glass and beyond. Follow me on instagram to see even more images from the show and a slew of designer and couture jewelry as they come into the shop. 

MAD Museum press release and information:

Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger will be an eye-opening presentation of necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, many of them one-of-a-kind, drawn from the world-renowned collection of Barbara Berger. Featured designers include Kenneth Jay Lane, Lanvin, Missoni, Oscar de la Renta and Pucci. The exhibition will be on view at the Museum of Arts and Design from June 25 through September 22, 2013 (a portion of the exhibition will remain open until January 20, 2014).

Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger is organized by David McFadden, William and Mildred Lasdon Chief Curator at the Museum of Arts and Design, in collaboration with jewelry historian Harrice Simons Miller, as guest curator.

Support for Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger generously provided by Miriam Haskell, with additional support from KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, the official airline of MAD.

PUBLICATION

The exhibition is accompanied by a lavishly illustrated publication on the Berger collection published by Assouline in 2013 titled Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger. The book includes forewords by Pamela Golbin and Iris Apfel and an essay on the history of fashion jewelry in the Berger Collection by Harrice Miller.

Shop Sarara Vintage Jewelry:
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Shop update: The Cadoro Jewelry Collection

Cadoro utility charm necklace, 70s.

Many jewelry lovers and collectors of vintage pieces have a place in their heart for Cadoro. The brand's aesthetic was a bit Haute Hippie with a little mod earthy feel. The textures, colors, and scale make their pieces desired and wearable. The designers; actor Steve Brody and Dan Staneskieu started Cadoro in 1945. They traveled the globe in search of fine quality and unique components. I have handled enough Cadoro to know that yes, it was handcrafted. As a jewelry designer, I love seeing those little details and yes sometimes even mistakes.  Many pieces were very limited and today you are lucky to find some of the sought after examples.

Their signature marks are CADORO and CADORO with a copyright symbol. The company suffered the loss of Dan Staneskieu who died in the 1960s and the company ceased trading in 1970. Some say the official end extended into the 80s. This dates the jewelry and makes it limited. Many stars wore their jewelry and the brand was a fashion A list favorite. 

In the last few years, the jewelry archives in NYC have been opened for sale in limited quantities. The surviving designer held a stock of many limited, couture, and unique pieces, in what insiders called the "vault". One major department store-bought for their vintage section since the beginning.  The molds and some fittings are also in the talks-being possibly sold to a major design house-I'll leave it at that...  Many of these pieces are unused stock, runway or one of a kind. This archive is almost empty and such deadstock pieces will not be found.

I am lucky to have access to this archive and wanted to celebrate the brand with this shop update.  I am also a collector of the brand, so there will be pieces from my archive trickling in as well! To this day I am in search of a huge serpent like necklace I accidentally passed up-ah! It was huge....alas... The goal is to curate a couture and runway Cadoro selection on my SVC site as well.  I will be adding to this collection so check back often.

Enjoy this colorful fashion filled shop update: Check Sarara Vintage etsy and Sarara Couture for prices-if you can't find it just shoot me an email: sara@sararavintagecouture.com

 

 

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