The Top North American Vintage Designs to Collect and Wear

Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art

When looking through my store and collection, I realized that North American designers are a building block for the vintage fashion lover. Living in New York and having the luxury of going into the city where the "American" style was built and continues to thrive also helps! In this country we most certainly have a history of fashion design all our own.  Of course we all covet the European designers like Chanel, YSL, Lanvin, Oscar, Dior, and others who were born outside the United States, which became American staples. Designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli, born in Italy altered "American" style forever.  Some of which like Oleg Cassini, french born became an American national as well as an institution. As hard as it was, I wanted narrow down the designers which have helped shape the history of the "American" look.  I did this by focusing on those born in the country working prior to 1979. You can see a full view of the entire history of the "American" look here at the Brooklyn Museum.  Without further ado...

                       Key Pieces From The North American Designers (Pre 1979) List:

1. Gilbert Adrian-Anything you can get-his dresses of course but these are a rare treat.  His glamourous style and pulse on American chic led to the creation of his couture "Old Hollywood" style.  The power shoulders, cut of the gowns...  However, my favorite example above, merges the chic and North American influence is this southwestern inspired dress by Gilbert circa 1948.  "Gilbert Adrian designed numerous ensembles for his friend and client, Millicent Rogers (1902-1953), yet few as personal as this dress. Adrian and his wife introduced Rogers to the American southwest by inviting her to Taos area in 1947, igniting a love of the region that lasted for the remainder of Rogers' life"(Met Museum).

2. Lilli Ann- I think it is safe to say if you have one piece of Lilli Ann, it should be a coat. Look for the styles with fur trim and a cinched waist or swing coat style. Her coats can be scored at various prices.  Indiecultvintage, Dear Golden, and Bustown Modern seem to always have the perfect Lilli Ann coat in stock during the fall/winter months.

Lilli Ann Coat, Vogue Nov. 1952. Photo Richard Avedon.

3. Bill Blass another icon has a lot of pieces on the market. Look for mixed patterns and fabrics.

1970s Bill Blass Gown. Image by Vintage Rosemond, rights reserved.

4. Geoffrey Beene a classic American designer and couture creator with a soft architectural yet timeless look. Try to find Beene pieces that exhibit a sporty yet modern structured feel or a softened yet dressy elements.

Geoffrey Beene evening gown. Museum of Fine Art, Boston, Image by MFA.

5. Bonnie Cashin's work is such a perfect example of American sporty chic. It is polished but easy to wear. Focus on her coats for sills and early bags for coach.  Prices range from around 100-900.
                           
          Bonnie Cashin for Sills coat and belt. 1973. Bonnie Cashin Cape, circa 1963. Met Museum Archive and Image.

Vintage Luxury, 1stdibs. Click here.

                           
Ceil Chapman was worn by stars such as Marilyn Monroe. Look for her evening, formal attire well draped dresses -these are her signature looks.

Couture Ceil Chapman dress. Image by Tomorrow's Envy.

Victor Costa known for bringing "cheaper" versions of couture and European designers to the states. Pick what you like, his vintage designs are also affordable. I like his work for Suzy Perette.

Lilli Diamond was at her best with the fitted bodice and plush skirt or the wiggle style dress.  Her little black dresses are where it is at! You can see examples in my Who is Lilli Diamond post.

Mr Dino is all about going bold or going home! Known for his mid century prints.  Look for one with a white or black base and geometric shapes.

Mr. Dino dress for sale here. Image by Story Threads.

Perry Ellis was famous for his sporty men's wear used by the likes of John Lennon and Bruce Lee.  He also made women's sport influenced clothing. Look for those easy wear shapes that aren't too dated in silhouette.

Leslie Fay became well known for a practical dress that was wearable and not overly expensive.  Look for just a simple shift dress for work.

                                       

Diane Von Furstenberg dress, circa 1970s. Sarara Vintage and Shary Connella image. See it here.

DVF is all about the wrap dress, she really invented the American wrap dress, it was light and sporty yet chic!  Go for a vintage Diane Von Furstenberg in a wonderful print.

DVF wrap dress, met museum image. 1975,76.

Halston for me would be two things, the Elsa Peretti perfume bottle necklaces and the easy wear draped dresses in various forms evoking a Greek Goddess. Some were made of chiffon, some casual fabrics. It's really all about the event dress in everything from sequin gowns to the one shoulder silhouette.  Look for rich colors for evening and the 70s beige and khaki for day wear versions.  See the Met Museum collection of Halston here.

Silk Halston dress, Met Museum Collection Image. 1978.

Tommy Hilfiger was working pre 1970s trafficking bellbottoms from the city to his hometown. He did not start his label officially until 1985. So he really should't be included I guess, but I wanted to mention his contribution to preppy "American" style.
Betsey Johnson was a bit of the junior sport look with dash of rock/punk thrown in!  Little short bold print tops and dresses- earlier pieces would be great for collectors as she dressed the likes of Twiggy during this phase.  See the Manhattan Vintage Show blog for their shoot on her clothing, which was the focus of the last MVS show in NYC.

Norma Kamali used different textiles to form her look which included interesting coat shapes and the 1980s shoulder pad look. She used velvet to make Edwardian inspired suits and sweatsuit material to make a long tailored jacket-which I own!

Donna Karan's garments are well tailored and full of basic staples for a working woman and or stylish busy mom. Her looks mix and match jersey dresses and such. Her experience with working for Anne Klein surely influenced her style as well. Look for her easy to wear vintage dresses of such textiles.

Anne Klein is seen as a sort of founder of "American" sport style with a comfortable sophisticated edge. She used separates such as blazers and her iconic lion logo design.  One can look for her lion on scarves and in her jewelry line. I do like the larger costume jewelry she produced in the 80s.

Calvin Klein was founded at the tail end of the 60s on minimal lines, cuts, and designs; but who could forget the designer jeans, underwear, and perfume ads!  Look for those early pieces such as the 70s signed jeans.

Ralph Lauren's contribution to the North American look is his play on the west, Native American designs, khaki, and woven textiles.  Early American textiles and plaids surely influenced his work.  Not to forget his use of preppy sporting styles inspired by riding and polo.  Look for styles seen on his vintage site: rlvintage, the southwestern sweaters and pieces to collect are all demonstrated there.

Bob Mackie is known for his artistic dazzled pieces used by the likes of Cher.  You can definitely see his love of costume design and one should look for pieces that demonstrate this flair when wearing and collecting.  Embrace the beads, feathers, and velvet. His pieces are becoming very collectible, see the auction record.

From the Ebony Fashion Fair Collection.  Leslie Hindman auction image. 1970s Bob Mackie Dress.

Mary McFadden's work reflects her use of art history, travel, and other cultures. Look for  gowns/dresses with wonderful textile designs, draping, embroidery, and prints.  Her Delphos Fortuny goddess inspired gowns are also collectible.

Jessica McClintock's line is known for bridal dresses and gowns. However, her vintage early hippie style Gunne Sax dresses are still worn today.

Anna Miller was sister to Maurice Rentner. Her line of 40s-50s dress are collected- so look for her early pieces. You can see an example of her label on the Vintage Fashion Guild vintage label resource.

Lilly Pulitzer was known and continues to be collected/worn for her colorful resort style.  You can find many of her not so shy vintage bright early floral dresses in vintage stores.

Henry Rosenfeld made great dresses for the everyday woman that were stylish yet affordable. Look for styles like the one seen in my shop, see image below. Now very collectible.

Late 40s-50s Henry Rosenfeld cotton dress. Sarara Vintage, Shary Connella photograph.

Nettie Rosenstein was an important high end designer with many aspects to her line including accessories, bags, clothing, perfume, and jewelry.  I adore her large whimsical jewelry and her bags in interesting shapes and fabrics.

Nettie Rosenstein sequin handbag. Sarara Vintage image, for sale here.

Malcom Starr gained popularity in part because of his gowns and evening attire. Try to find 1960s beaded or metallic gowns or country club style sets, picture Mad Men parties!

Claire McCardell is a founding mother of American ready to wear clothing, her line being popular in the 30s-50s. She has a special place here as her designs are considered the beginning of the "American" style. Casual chic would be her look. Honestly finding anything by her would be worth the time! The met museum has several examples of her work here.

Vera Maxwell is famous for those 50s suit coats and sets. See the fashionencyclopedia.com for an in depth article on her designs and history.

Elizabeth Hawes had higher end construction yet a ready to wear more affordable philosophy.  She was known for her glove designs as well. She focused on creating her own designs not knocking off Parisian styles, although in the beginning her career began doing just that. See  Bettina Berch's biography, Radical by Design: The Life and Style of Elizabeth Hawes for more information.  I enjoy her graphic colorful dresses. She was interested in a less stiff approach to fashion as what had been popular in the past.  The Fashion Institute of New York and the Met have some great examples. I love this lounge set I found on display in the Salon of Dames,  here.

Hawes lounge outfit, circa 1939. Image by private collector/Salon of Dames. 

Sally Victor is famous for her hats. Any hat of hers from the 30s-50s is collectible.  See the met archive of her whimsical architectural hats here.

Charles James is thought of as one of American's first couture designers. I would be over the moon, to own any of his couture ballgowns from the 40s-60s. I adore his geometric hems seen in his four leaf clover dresses and his overall artistic construction.  I would love a 40s piece such as the one at the met, below. This pinterest page has a great collection of images of his work.

Charles James dress, Met Museum image. See it here.

Norman Norell started his business in the 40s and the evening coats and glam dresses are great. He worked with simple lines too especially for his day looks. He had a flair for costume and in the 70s designs this really shows. I'd love to have a 70s evening coat by him.

I hope you enjoyed this post on collecting "American" vintage and the list of influential designers to look for and whay. If you have an American vintage designer piece, feel free to post images. For more information on the history of the "American look" see the Met Museum essay here.

*I may have forgotten one or two American designers from the 70s or before, so please comment about someone you like that may not be listed or add tips on where to find the ones here. Remember this post focuses on those who opened in the 70s or before having been born in the states as a practical way to edit the post down. 

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Real Vintage? L.A. Frocks and The Dukes of Melrose

Ruben Panis Gown, 1980s. Sold at The Way We Wore or her 1stdibs store.

With vintage trending, I knew it was only a matter of time before, yes reality T.V. would merge with the historical garment biz. Second Time Around in Soho was featured on their own show, but they really deal with newer consigned designer/couture. These two new shows about vintage have just released: L.A. Frocks and The Dukes of Melrose.  I think that both are fun to watch, especially if you are addicted to vintage like I am, but L.A. Frocks- which based on the goings on of the vintage institution The Way We Wore stands out.  Just that fact that she knows and appreciates a Seminole jacket-which I recognized on her while watching, means she knows textiles. See images below.

Doris looking for good vintage in a 40s-50s Seminole jacket, rights reserved by Smithsonian channel.

Doris Raymond is extremely relateable and full of knowledge. It is a great show for the seller and buyer of vintage. As a seller viewing, it is a comfort knowing that she started in flea markets and has indeed been doing this a long time. She has elevated her eye and accentuated her talent for selecting items from estate sales, auctions, other dealers, vintage shows, and private closets.  This cultivation of a brand and archive is important. I have learned editing is central, you really do have to have a gift in a way to just sort through "old" to find the gold. Clients don't want to sift through old stuff or they would be in thrift store diggin.   Her experience shows, in episode 1 when she passes up both a 30s Chanel due to added zippers and a not so right Pioret -which is hard to do. She shows the importance of thinking about resale and condition - look at her clip on arm pit stains for instance on the Smithsonian channel website.  This is the non glam side of things, but so important. As we speak- I am dealing with restoring a 60s Pucci blouse with some weak areas and hand washing some older cottons now.  Not to mention my dry cleaning bill!

For those who collect or are new to vintage she provides eye candy in terms of the clothing featured. Her knowledge on care, makers, designs, and era appeals to the novice and seasoned wearer alike.   The store inventory clearly shows that she has been in the "real" vintage trenches and survived! She has the stock correctly sorted by era and price. This makes her spot accessible to the every day shopper, stylists, and celebs, as well as designers for inspiration (don't even get me started on her designer inspiration room next door which I had heard of by word of mouth). Plus, I think she is friends with Kelly Cutrone -so she can't be a bore!  In summary, for the vintage seller if you have to pick a show to watch out of the two this is it.  It shows the everyday, as well as the tools to be successful such as editing and the process of our endless search. Relief is found in her triumphs during the show. Not to mention the history of the celebs who have worn garments in the past, and the introduction to the current ones who love vintage. The show's detailing of the function of the clothing today, whether on Glee or Dita Von Teese is appealing. Plus, who couldn't watch Dita -she's like your very own vintage pin up girl-right there trying on frocks made for her body type. The scene or her trying on 40s-50s couture is like porn for vintage lovers.   If you look at the two networks hosting the shows- The Smithsonian channel is our provider for L.A. Frocks versus the more fluffy reality extravaganza which is Bravo the styles are clear. You can watch the first episode of L.A. Frocks here.

Alaia belt, Decades Inc., Shop here. Image Decades Inc, rights reserved.

The Dukes of Melrose is a spotlight on the owners of Decades in L.A. In a way both stores are really credited with making vintage glamourous and removing the stereotype of dirty old clothing. Decades, Inc. is well known in the circles. They both do what good dealers should do, which is present good sturdy, cleaned, or treated garments ready to be worn or collected.  The banter between the two owners, Cameron Silver and Christos Garkinos is endearing. The owners of decades have been in the vintage business a long time and do have the experience and know how....Their salon style boutique is great to look at and inspires the seller and buyer visually.  That said, you will find pieces from 2011 in Decades. The first episode focuses on the celebs closets and uses of vintage on the red carpet during award season.  Thus, the focus on the glam of fashion, over the history is evident.  Not that this isn't fun to watch but these are definitely two different stores and shows.   Find latest episodes and photographs here.

In a way the show sells their huge inventory and vintage a little short. If you look at their store website you see true vintage although they sell newer items that have been worn and sort of traded in for the next new season's look. Decades also work with Dita and have a great little Dita Von Teese Collection up http://www.shopdecadesinc.com/.  As far as shops both have designer and couture items. Doris shines with her true vintage designer/couture finds such as dresses and gowns from the 20s-80s (although I think she carries a few older pieces) and unique textiles in general.  Decades stands out for their stock of couture dresses 60s-90s, as well as men's vintage and their designer accessories. They have very modern feel and their curated store lets you know who they are. This is also true of The Way We Wore but her vibe again being more true vintage, rare, historical garments that are current and wearable for women.

1980s Dior Couture Cuff. Shop Decades here. Image Decades Inc, rights reserved.

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Edyth Sparag New York: 1930s Sketches

Edyth Sparag, New York Drawing, signed. 1930s. Sarara Vintage Image/Scan.

Edyth Sparag was a New York designer working in the 30s-50s. Most information is known about her through her fashion sketches made in her offices and used to create her clothing.  Her office was located at 1440 Broadway, New York- at least in the 1930s. Other drawings say 1450 Broadway. There are a couple of museums with large collections of her sketches which are used as a sort of guide to popular fashion in NYC during the 30s-40s. One can be found at the University of California- it actually might be the largest most encompassing the 30s-50s-see info here.The Fashion Institute in NYC has work by her dating form 1950-1959. Neither are available online.  That is why I wanted to publish three of mine here for all to view.  I have three early ones from the 1930s. They are an important part of fashion history.  As the Skyscraper museum states :

"Within this garment district are 4,500 women's clothing firms. Three out of every four dresses sold in the country originate in New York, making women's garments the principal industry in the city, with an annual dollar volume of $4.4 billion ... Dozens of new firms pop up each season-and many disappear to try again under another name. "It doesn't take money," said one owner. "It takes guts, gall and creativity." Firms with only 30-40 employees compete with the big trade names in the wild steeplechase that produces over 150,000 separate designs each year." (See the article and exhibit here.)

I cannot seem to find much about Edyth herself. However, her style and designs live on through her fashion sketches that come up periodically among collectors, on ebay and in museums. I love these two   little works of art, just look at the stylish woman in yellow and blue checking her makeup. The green dress seems so pretty with the suede details and cloth base as written on the description in pencil.  Enjoy this little 1930s fashion archive by Edith.

Edyth Sparag Drawing , 1930s, printed logo. SararaVintage scan.

Edyth Sparag drawing with annotations by hand. 1930s. Sarara Vintage Scan/image, rights reserved.

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