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Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Runway size Richelieu Fit for a King or Richard Burton?

Posted on 11:41 AM by ergeg
Sarara Vintage photographs of large Richelieu piece,rights reserved.
Was this necklace worn by Richard Burton playing King Arthur in Broadway's Camelot? That is the question... I bought it from a source who is friends with an old film and theater costumer.  Now if you have looked over the blog, you will see I do love a good piece of fashion or jewelry with an old Hollywood, film, or a theatrical history.  This piece was supposed to have been worn by Burton in the production, so I am off to look through many pictures and see what I can verify.  There are three possibilities, if it was worn on stage by him: Camelot 1980-1981, Hamlet 1964, or Camelot 1960. Many times a verbal history can be off. However, at the very least it is an enormous King worthy Richelieu runway style necklace- so no harm in the addition of this to the store.  The length seems more proportionate to a man. Seeing it on my brother made me think..... The piece is large and styled like a necklace in royal red, that would fit a King in such a production.  The design and color are possible clues.  It is signed both Richelieu and Richoliou or Richeliou to the right.


Signature plaques, Richelieu copyright symbol and printed to the right on plaque.
Richelieu was a jewelry company founded in New York by Joseph H. Meyer & Bros, which began in 1911 and ended in 2003.  The jewelry is just beginning to gain popularity.  This piece I believe, per the style and signature, dates to around the 1960s or 70s, but possibly the early 80s. The cursive script according to the patent site below ceased use in 83.  Quite frankly,  I think the 60s-80s was when they made some great pieces. 

An intereting link about the Richelieu patents and signatures is:jewelrypatentproject.com. You can see some sample signatures and dates for Richelieu at Illusion Jewels under Joseph Meyer. 
                                                  
I believe this might have been designed by Bill Smith who began working for Richelieu in 1968, as the vp and then head designer. During this time he became the first African American to win the Coty award for costume jewelry design. Many of his pieces were only signed on a paper tag that was attached.  Some pieces are signed on the metal- Bill Smith of Richelieu...He began jewelry design in 1958 after coming to New York to study dance. His designs are often African inspired. You can see this in the archive photos- for Look magazine, circa 1972 which includes a spread entitled “Fashion Now: Black Pow!” here.  After Richelieu Bill Smith worked under his own name designing for Cartier, Omega, Hattie Carnegie and Anne Klein. Another possibility Clifton Nicholson, who also was a jewelry designer for Richelieu. Needless to say, the piece interests me either way and I'll be trying to put an exact on it before listing it on Sarara Vintage Couture.  For now it graces our model and will be part of the website launch!
                                                
Vintage Richelieu Necklace, signed. Sarara Vintage, Shary Connella photo.
I think that the collector's market for Richelieu is growing, especially the large 60s-late 70s pieces. I am putting together a collection for the shop and will add some more images to the blog here. Pieces by Bill range from 70-500 depending on the design.  

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Posted in 1970s jewelry, Camelot, costume jewelry Bill Smith, designer, Hamlet, Richard Burton, Richelieu jewelry, Runway Necklace, theater | No comments
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