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| Louisiana State Museum Archive: Paul Poiret Evening Gown, circa 1929, far left. Image property of LSM. |
I have to admit, as you may know if you have read the blog before, I love Paul Poiret and his designs. Yet, I never really stopped to think about the way the gown evolved in the 20s, especially the mid to late part of the era. Poiret has many such examples, as the dress above: "This gown was worn to the donor's wedding by her mother-in-law and is an example of the lower hemlines worn by the end of the 1920s. Although the innovative designer Paul Poiret was struggling to keep his Paris couture house open by this time, one of his great contributions to women's fashions-the elimination of the corset-is in full view in this lightweight and almost shapeless gown" (Louisana State Museum online). See the gown here at the, Museum archive. However, it was not until I came across this dress at an estate of a lady who had many family pieces ranging from the 1800s-1940s, that I was hit with their beauty. This dress because it was long could be accidently lumped into the 30s however, upon further inspection you see the drop waist, the deco triangular cuts and ruffles of the drop waist and the construction such as side snaps dating it the later 20s.
  
From the mid to late 20s there is a definite emphasis on patterns and length beginning. As the FIDM museum states about 20s design in general: |
"Vibrant patterns and bold colors are common characteristics of textiles dating from the 1920s. Rejecting the Belle Epoque palette of off-white and cream accented with pale pink or soft blue, textile designers drew from a variety of eclectic sources to create patterns showcasing a rainbow of saturated colors. Design inspiration came from near and far, with elements of European folk art, modern art movements, non-western cultures and classical civilizations all influencing 1920s textile designs. Though noteworthy in their own right, these textiles were also part of a larger design movement called Art Deco. Originating in France around 1910, Art Deco was based on a luxurious interpretation of modern life. The movement influenced all areas of design, including architecture, fashion, graphic design and decorative arts. Disseminated via the well-attended Paris Exposition of 1925, Art Deco became a universal style that influenced both mass-produced and elite design throughout the world" (http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/1920s/).
Bridgeman Art Library in NYC has a great assortment of Poiret images/designs, many include long 1920s looks. You can see them here:
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| Bridgeman Image. See http://www.bridgemanart.com |
Here's a Hommage to this longer 20s dress style. Enjoy!
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| The Way We Wore, 1920s Velvet Dress. |
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| Vintage Textile Dress, 1929. |
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| Jessie Franklin Turner Evening Dress, late 1920s. Met Museum Archive and image. |
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| 1928 McCall Magazine. From projectwedding.com |
My other mid to late 20s dress is a longer style, not quite a gown but a dress up piece with golden metallic thread and chiffon. It is excellent which is rare in these delicate pieces. It is listed now in the shop at this link: Sarara Vintage along with other items 1920s or before.
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| Image property of Sarara Vintage. 1920s Metallic Dress photographs. |
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