Miriam Haskell's Watercolor Archives

 

Miriam Haskell Abalone, shell necklace. Signed. Sarara Vintage Image.

After finding an iconic abalone shell claw style choker necklace by Miriam Haskell, I was inspired to revisit her work and legacy.  I have been having a Miriam moment lately and am looking for some very specific pieces. Right now 1970s Egyptian revival King Tut pieces come to mind!  Miriam started designing in the mid 20s and by the end of the 20s her work was very popular.  These pieces prior to 1948 are not signed, but the wire and beading designs in intricate shapes using floral motifs and glass beads are often a hint to their origin. However; there are various piece attributed to Haskell that are unsigned on ebay and such which are not hers.  As a beginning collector it is safer to start with tagged signed pieces.  Here is a visual example guide via Morning Glory Antiques to help you with the early unsigned jewelry, many of which done under Frank Hess in the early days: Unsigned images.

                                                   

Antiquehelper.com image. All rights reserved.Miriam Haskell Clips. Circa 1937.
Miriam Haskell Shell Necklace hang tag. photo Sarara Vintage.

Miriam Haskell's designs have adorned the bodies of many women.  Much has been discussed concerning her life and body of work.  Thus, I decided to focus on the archives created by Larry Austin.  Larry Austin's watercolors are beautiful vintage archives of Miriam Haskell designs being worn by models.  The logo on some of these watercolor images according to Harrice Simons-Miller shows the early logo which "appeared on jewelry boxes around the 1920s"(Costume Jewelry, p.25).

Auction houses, collectors and enthusiasts refer to the images in order to validate some pieces.  Antiquehelper.com an auction house, has an archive which they have since sold that combined some  original jewelry or similar styles with the drawings/watercolors.  See the antiquehelper images above and below.  Morning Glory Antiques also has one of the best digital archives and jewelry combination photograph archives that I have seen. These are all from private collections and cannot be copied via internet but for study see their site: Haskell illustrations/Jewelry.

Photographs courtesy of antiquehelper.com

                               LARRY AUSTIN AND THE WATERCOLOR/DRAWINGS

     

There is not a great deal about Larry Austin which is known.  He was hired to create such pieces as ads for her line to be displayed in shops or for publication.  In fact since these were mostly unsigned it is hard to sometimes say if he did them or not. Experts assess the artwork's style to try to attribute authorship.  Her jewelry company did contract various artists to do drawings and watercolors or illustrations.  One of my favorites is this Egyptian bib style set and watercolor.

1940s illustration attributed to Larry Austin. Wearing Turquoise bead Miriam Haskell set.  Photograph Courtesy of antiquehelper.com

When Miriam became ill in the 1950s her protege Frank Hess took over the reins in terms of design. The quality of the designs remained. Many of the images discussed and attributed to Larry Austin contain designs by Frank Hess.

1940s illustration depicting jewelry designs by Frank Hess. Photo Courtesy of antiquehelper.com

 The ownership of Miriam Haskell was changed in the 80s. You can read more about Miriam Haskell and gain knowledge of her designs in several books and guides, here are two examples.  Miriam Haskell was relaunched and the company is still producing: Haskell jewelry.

BOOK LIST:

Costume Jewellery: The Jewels of Miriam Haskell [Hardcover]

Deanna Farneti Cera 2013- new less expensive version coming out of popular and expensive 1993 edition!
Miriam Haskell Jewelry by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff. 


More Larry Austin Watercolor Photographs Courtesy of Antique Helper:

Rare, early origional Miriam Haskell illustration by Larry Austin. Watercolor on board depicting model wearing early Miriam Haskell cluster clip and bracelet by Frank Hess. Ca. 1940. 8 x 10". Description antiquehelper.com

1940s Larry Austin Watercolor of Miriam Haskell Clip and Bracelet.

Miriam Haskell illustration artist design drawing, c.1940. Watercolor of a model in green with silver. Pine Cone design Haskell jewelry. Foil Haskell label. Numbered "754A" on back. 9 3/4" x 7 1/2". Description antiquehelper.com. Author unknown.

Circa 1937 Miriam Haskell drawing. Author unknown. 

                For More Larry Austin and Miriam Haskell auction records via antiquehelper.com