Miriam Haskell's Watercolor Archives

 

Miriam Haskell Abalone, shell necklace. Signed. Sarara Vintage Image.

After finding an iconic abalone shell claw style choker necklace by Miriam Haskell, I was inspired to revisit her work and legacy.  I have been having a Miriam moment lately and am looking for some very specific pieces. Right now 1970s Egyptian revival King Tut pieces come to mind!  Miriam started designing in the mid 20s and by the end of the 20s her work was very popular.  These pieces prior to 1948 are not signed, but the wire and beading designs in intricate shapes using floral motifs and glass beads are often a hint to their origin. However; there are various piece attributed to Haskell that are unsigned on ebay and such which are not hers.  As a beginning collector it is safer to start with tagged signed pieces.  Here is a visual example guide via Morning Glory Antiques to help you with the early unsigned jewelry, many of which done under Frank Hess in the early days: Unsigned images.

                                                   

Antiquehelper.com image. All rights reserved.Miriam Haskell Clips. Circa 1937.
Miriam Haskell Shell Necklace hang tag. photo Sarara Vintage.

Miriam Haskell's designs have adorned the bodies of many women.  Much has been discussed concerning her life and body of work.  Thus, I decided to focus on the archives created by Larry Austin.  Larry Austin's watercolors are beautiful vintage archives of Miriam Haskell designs being worn by models.  The logo on some of these watercolor images according to Harrice Simons-Miller shows the early logo which "appeared on jewelry boxes around the 1920s"(Costume Jewelry, p.25).

Auction houses, collectors and enthusiasts refer to the images in order to validate some pieces.  Antiquehelper.com an auction house, has an archive which they have since sold that combined some  original jewelry or similar styles with the drawings/watercolors.  See the antiquehelper images above and below.  Morning Glory Antiques also has one of the best digital archives and jewelry combination photograph archives that I have seen. These are all from private collections and cannot be copied via internet but for study see their site: Haskell illustrations/Jewelry.

Photographs courtesy of antiquehelper.com

                               LARRY AUSTIN AND THE WATERCOLOR/DRAWINGS

     

There is not a great deal about Larry Austin which is known.  He was hired to create such pieces as ads for her line to be displayed in shops or for publication.  In fact since these were mostly unsigned it is hard to sometimes say if he did them or not. Experts assess the artwork's style to try to attribute authorship.  Her jewelry company did contract various artists to do drawings and watercolors or illustrations.  One of my favorites is this Egyptian bib style set and watercolor.

1940s illustration attributed to Larry Austin. Wearing Turquoise bead Miriam Haskell set.  Photograph Courtesy of antiquehelper.com

When Miriam became ill in the 1950s her protege Frank Hess took over the reins in terms of design. The quality of the designs remained. Many of the images discussed and attributed to Larry Austin contain designs by Frank Hess.

1940s illustration depicting jewelry designs by Frank Hess. Photo Courtesy of antiquehelper.com

 The ownership of Miriam Haskell was changed in the 80s. You can read more about Miriam Haskell and gain knowledge of her designs in several books and guides, here are two examples.  Miriam Haskell was relaunched and the company is still producing: Haskell jewelry.

BOOK LIST:

Costume Jewellery: The Jewels of Miriam Haskell [Hardcover]

Deanna Farneti Cera 2013- new less expensive version coming out of popular and expensive 1993 edition!
Miriam Haskell Jewelry by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff. 


More Larry Austin Watercolor Photographs Courtesy of Antique Helper:

Rare, early origional Miriam Haskell illustration by Larry Austin. Watercolor on board depicting model wearing early Miriam Haskell cluster clip and bracelet by Frank Hess. Ca. 1940. 8 x 10". Description antiquehelper.com

1940s Larry Austin Watercolor of Miriam Haskell Clip and Bracelet.

Miriam Haskell illustration artist design drawing, c.1940. Watercolor of a model in green with silver. Pine Cone design Haskell jewelry. Foil Haskell label. Numbered "754A" on back. 9 3/4" x 7 1/2". Description antiquehelper.com. Author unknown.

Circa 1937 Miriam Haskell drawing. Author unknown. 

                For More Larry Austin and Miriam Haskell auction records via antiquehelper.com

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Art Deco Flapper, Pierre Bex and a Pin

1919/1920 Fashion Photograph, unknown. 

1920's style Art Deco Pin, Sarara Vintage.

This is one of those strange coincidences, some would say synchronicity.  I recently ran across an amazing Art Deco pin with a wonderful era trumpet closure and enamel work. The tiny stone details are also stunning.  I was captivated by the blue and deco floral designs, so indicative of the era.

Admiring what you dig up is wonderful, in a sense you have saved a piece of fashion history. Letting it live on to go to another party, to be pinned on another hat or just see the light of day again. The truth is such historical pieces continue to live the most interesting lives. I just see them off on their way to Paris, Australia or New York City.....  However; this particular artifact of the deco era became even more alluring when I found the above 1919 fashion photograph.  I could not find the photographer or model's name, but I did notice that PIN!  If this is not the same maker/pin than it is very close and an interesting archive for this piece. If you count the dips in the rectangular bars hers also has 3 on each smaller side and 5 in the center.

Trumpet closure back view.

1920's style enamel deco pin straight front view. Sarara Vintage.

The flapper model wore this pin perfectly, dancing across her cloche, illustrating how chic it can be in use.  I was intrigued concerning the maker since its clear enamel covering seemed different. 

The clear enamel covering on these is a little thick so that is the first key to start thinking reproduction, Pierre Bex used this type of enamel, rhinestones, but this pin I believe has a kind of foil inside to give it a rhinestone look.

Pierre Bex, a french design company reproduced these pins in the 60s-80s and one or two other makers also did that from the 80s-90s.  With this in mind I contacted Pierre Bex for more information.  They have stated it is not one of theirs.  So, it is probably an 80s remake by? This illustrates the importance of research and knowing that Pierre Bex used original mold to reproduce these pins. If someone who has less experience see a Bex pin they may think it is circa 1920s!  His pins are collectible due to their quality and the fact they used the originals.  

This is their description via their website-Pierre Bex

All PIERRE BEX items were made in France from 1969 until the end of the 80'.  Each piece is handmade in France from original stampings, the jewellery is then silverplated with an antic finish, nickel free warranty, and is then enamelled and set with crystal rhinestones.

Now the silver lining is that his pins are very collectible and you may contact or look over their website if you have a similar model!

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Glentex who? Vintage Scarf what?

Sarara Vintage image of 40s Glentex Scarf details.

If you ever think of Glentex at all, then you probably envision the later more common 50s-60s print scarves.  It seems that Glentex has more history to offer!  I was forced to think deeper when I found a 1940s, maybe early 50s era Glentex scarf, which was rayon, sequin and frankly done very well. It has a couture feel in many ways.  The cut is glorious!   So what about Glentex? And what about Elsa Schiaparelli's connection to the brand... I am getting ahead of myself.

Vintage Schiaparelli Scarf ad from magazine.

So, looking at this newest 40s find, I thought hum, it does have a certain Schiaparelli flair, but alas her coupling with Glentex was much later.

November 1946. Glentex Scarf Ad. From my personal collection. Image copy property of Sarara Vintage.

HISTORY-
Exhibit A. Schiaparelli and Glentex's history.  Exhibit B. Gloria Vanderbilt licensed a line of scarves in the 70s with Glentex....

Well, if you look the trademark up, this is what you find- That it is a registered trademark first applied for in 1939, specializing in Ladies Scarfs and Handkerchiefs owned by Honey Fashions, Ltd. Glensder Textile Co.   After this information, I saw a New York address and a website lead/emails and a Quebec contact list.  There was not much on the current site but email addresses. So I contacted the current owners!

LABELS and PRODUCTS:
In 1948, if I remember correctly they switched to the Duck in the rain logo or at least trademarked it for use beginning around 48 or 49.

The label on my is piece is early and maybe the earliest style, I am currently looking for the 1939 example.

1952 Glentex ad, Honey Fashions.  Notice the original New York address mentioned in the original trademark below.

1940s-early 50s Glentex Scarf. No tag, but displays similar cut, material and sequins. Image property of  Poppys Vintage Clothing

From what I have seen as a vintage seller, they produced accessories such as beaded collars via Japan and scarf pins as well.  Many scarves were also made in Japan by the company of various fabrics including silk.  Glentex was well popular through the 50s and famous as a brand working with Schiaparelli and other designers such as Gloria Vanderbilt by the 60s-70s.

Glentex tags on collars and scarfs during the 50s are very similar Glentex italic script as seen in the above ad with made in Japan below often on collars. I have also seen some made in India for Glentex. Simple white background and yellow lettering.

A similar tag is used in the 60s -look at the script on the ad below. Below I have also included a 50s-60s label example closeup from a pearl beaded collar.

Closeup. Sarara Vintage. 1950s Collar beaded Japanese tag for Glentex.

Sarara Vintage cropped closeup of 50s-60s Glentex Trademark in ad.

Current Glentex or Honey Fashions Ltd. company records for New York indicate that they produce today:

"Manufactures women`s hair accessories, gloves, handbags, belts, scarves, shawls, & kids backpacks Bismalemide fabric or cloth, Graphite fabric or cloth, Glass fabric or cloth, Resin impregnated fabric or cloth, Wire mesh fabric or cloth, Lace, Netting, Mesh, Coated fabrics, Upholstery fabrics, Hook and loop fabrics or tapes, Elastic braid..."via www.macraesbluebook.com.

1940s Glentex Scarf/Tie. Sarara Vintage Image.

TO BE Continued...... ( I will post the results of the interview or info acquired via the contact etc.- if any) For now here is a sneak peak at the scarf I am posting in the vintage scarf this week!

UPDATE:
I did find a contact phone but they directed me to someone else. So to sum it up no real response. I may try one other thing, but I get the sense that they maybe wholesale or manufacture for others under that name if it is the same old Glentex!

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Vintage Statement Pieces I'd Steal if I Had a Time Machine: Cher's Earrings!

Vintage Vogue December 1974 Scan from magazine spread. 

Well, there is quite a bit about this look I love, heck I want the earrings, the hair, the dress!  I have a little series going where I scan famous and everyday vintage fashion images. They have to have people wearing amazing statement pieces I wish I had. Then I post the find for you! I am revisiting that thought as I see Cher's spread in the December 1974 issue of Vogue.  Cher was never afraid to take fashion risks and she wore statement accessories often. First off concerning this particular photoshoot at this point in 1974 they were celebrating 60 years of Cher....what now....she looks so amazing! I think the woman is a genetic freak of nature- I want what she is having.  So if I could go back in time to grab some vintage fashion today, it would be those earrings!

Original Richard Avedon Photograph. Dress by Bob Mackie and Ray Aghayan. Photo credit: Richard Avedon.

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