Vintage Statement Pieces I'd Grab if I had a Time Machine- This Caftan

Ruth Ford, where to begin- I became interested in her after acquiring a necklace that belonged to her. But that is another story. My focus here is on statement pieces and this article is too short to address her life but this model and actress born in 1911 has an interesting story and died at 98. Long time resident of NYC's the Dakota, where she entertained many creative and famous guests, she was described as a beauty and a muse. In this image she is wearing an amazing dress that I would indeed love to grab if I had a time machine. Most likely, I would also have liked to sit and stay awhile once in her Dakota digs.

Refer to the New York Times article on Ruth Ford for more information about her life.http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/14/theater/14ford-1.html

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The Brooch- Not Your Granny's Sweater Pin

Vintage Pins: A Trend to Try

When we think of pins and brooches one may think of grandma or the Victorians. However; the pin trend really has begun to pick up some speed. Wearing pins has been something humans have done for centuries and represent some one of the oldest ways to decorate the body. Greeks and Romans used them to fasten their clothing and these fibulas were very functional. Celts produced some beautiful examples as well with wonderful natural and geometric iconography. Various amazing examples can be viewed in museums throughout the world. Victorians were really masters of the pin or brooch and made the look famous. From mourning brooches of woven hair, jet, marcasite and gold, to the lava cameo the Victorians loved these beautiful accessories. Starting in the Spring of 2011 we saw a rebirth extending through this fall and winter. In recent times we saw the trend in 2006, 2009 and again now. SJP's character on Sex and the City wore a plethora of brooches on the series and in the films. I think we will continue to see this classic fashion accessory yet. Its been really coming into style for men as well. See the Justin Bieber wearing YSL image. Quite frankly, Chanel never stopped using and creating iconic pins. Image below from Sex and the City the Film. Wedding Scene. See credits on photo.

Vintage Recommendations -Find a pin style for you:
1. Raid Grandma's Jewelry Box:
The 20's-50's designs range from art deco to rhinestones and beyond. 1920's pieces can be extremely desirable and I am especially fond of those deco designs with an Egyptian revival theme. Have fun with her 50's and 60's pieces on Jackets or Coats.

2.Experiment with Victorian brooches for evening or with scarves. You can learn more about identifying these in various jewelry texts- Jeanenne Bell. Collecting Victorian Jewelry: Identification and Price Guide.2004

3.Let's not forget that many a fashion house has adored the pin. Lanvin and Chanel to name two. You can find some wonderful vintage pieces made by YSL, Lanvin, Chanel, and Nettie Rosenstein. Nettie was quite a woman, produced amazing purses, jewelry, clothing and whimsical wearable pins for those who like to wear specific designers.

Justin Bieber 2011 Music Awards in a YSL pin.

Lanvin Collection Spring 2011/ Bee Brooch

Chanel. Fall 2006. Runway.

4.Throw in some 60's Matisse brooches made from enamel and copper. They have great scale and texture. Image. Matisse Pin, Vintage. Sarara Vintage










5.If you have extra $$ Salvador Dali original pins are amazing but pricey. The lip pin designed in 1949 feature ruby crystals and faux pearls. Originals start at about $5,000. You can get some inspired examples in the form of the lip design today. A recent exhibit traveling the U.S. reproduced them for sale in the museum shops for $130. See the Dali Museum online.

Madelle Hegeler. May 1959. New York. Image by © Bettmann/CORBIS.


















6. 1980's Animal pins in the lion, ram, tiger or horse/zebra.

80's Toucan Brooch. Sarara Vintage.












Ways to Wear the Brooch or Pin: 1.The deco rhinestone pin or dress clip added to a dress where it gathers on the skirt or shoulder area.
2.On a felt or wool hat- I love the larger 50's rhinestone examples on today's hats or the flapper style hat.
3.On a jacket/sweater lapel-oversized examples look great.
4.Pinned on a clutch or envelope style purse.
5.Make them into a pendant. The local jeweler can add a small sterling hook on the back.
6.Around a necklace with various strands to the side of it. Or just pin it on a one strand pearl necklace and adjust the way it hangs.

40s sequin pin on vintage pearls. Sarara Vintage.

7.On the flap of a tartan skirt of course!
8.Fastened on a hair clip and then slide the clip in the hair- again rhinestone and deco styles work well. Audrey Hepburn made this look famous, celebs like Katherine Heigl have rocked the look.
9.Holding the top of a cardigan together.
7.As your something old, pinned on a wedding dress.

Audrey Hepburn. Credits on Photo. Breakfast at Tiffany's.

Photo on clutch. 30's Pin. Image by Sarara Vintage.

Antique Pin on Lapel. Image by Sarara Vintage.

Photo Daily Mail, UK. Photographer and copyright on photograph.
* Notice the Leaf worn by Princess Kate, a family heirloom which adorned the queen before her as featured in the dailymail article -http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2010322/Kate-Middleton-Prince-Williams-royal-tour-Canada-Day-2011-red-hot.html

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Fashion: The Secret- Tips and Thoughts on Finding Your Style

Fashion: The Secret. Tips to finding your favorite style icon inside yourself. Following in the footsteps of an icon.

THE ART OF FASHION

I have always loved the art of decorating the body, from a very young age my adoration began! My mother had lovingly recounted that I had to have a fashion magazine during my early potty training years or I would not go to the bathroom- end of story. If it slid off my lap I would proceed to cry. My major addiction and love affair however, has overwhelmingly been with jewelry, which I have collected as early as I remember. I would go to estate sales with my father and obsessively insist to buy that big boxes of old costume jewelry, sterling or whatever I could get my hands on. Those pieces told a story about a time and place and even the wearer that appealed to me. Some great women, ordinary from afar and extraordinary in retrospect, have shared themselves with me via their style lumped in such boxes. It was this connection to culture, history and adornment that has, in retrospect, led me to the field of anthropology. Almost thirty years later I crave that great acquisition. My latest find, an old Navajo hand cast silver bracelet made with experience, knowledge and love has won my heart. In my experience I gravitate towards what I feel reminds me of my heritage or some era or culture I admire.


ENJOY FASHION -EXPRESS YOURSELF

Fashion should be experienced, felt. As my friend always says these things find you, you don't find them. “No one was interested or saw that object because it was waiting for you”, she would chime in.

That said, I invite you to find yourself and your inner inspiration and icon. Jacki O, Coco Chanel, Aunt Patricia, your mom, Sara Jessica Parker, Michelle Obama, Samantha from Bewitched, Princess Diana, Diana Ross, Audrey Heburn, Katharine Heburn, Lauren Bacall, Iman, a vintage necklace, A Navajo bracelet in a photograph, Rachel Welch, Iris Apfel..... Think back to the first time you saw someone wearing an item that inspired you or spoke to your inner sense of aesthetic.


SECRETS TO FINDING YOURSELF IN FASHION

Secret one: Find an icon, do some research, discover that person that most closely relates to your current style and then decide what makes their effort a little more successful than your own. Make a decision to take it to the same level of dedication, don't be afraid to look to them for inspiration. For example, the discovery of Iris Apfel, my personal fashion icon. I had never even heard of her until a few years ago, but we had been having an affair with the same accessories for years. The only difference was that she fully embraced and incorporated them to the utmost. We both have a love of Native American accessories, cultures, design, texture and textiles. She starts with basic colors and well tailored silhouettes, culturally curated textiles, then adds layers, textures and statement pieces which mean something or appeal to her whether they were 50 Cents or a few thousand.

So who is your icon? Find their main staples and incorporate their passion! Remember the goal is not to copy their style but to find your core interests and apply those into your style as the greatest icons do!

Secret two: Vintage pieces. One tool to acquiring a couture look has been to build on great quality vintage clothing finds and jewelry pieces adding your favorite up to date brands. This can save you money, but it also can give you a couture look because not everyone has the same piece as you. Pick a decade or culture that you really relate to and restyle it. Simplifying is key, as you do not want to look like a blast from the past or a culture convert. Think one vintage piece per ensemble at first. Style icons like Rachel Zoe and Patricia Fields have been using this mantra for years. So, mix your wardrobe with a couple of unique vintage staples which match the current trends in stores if you want to be on the safe side. For instance, if big belts are in vogue find a great vintage one of a kind one that matches the trend.

Secret three: Don't be afraid to try something new at least once. For instance, ask yourself what your all time favorite piece of clothing is, something that you would love to wear by never had the nerve. Wear it once and maybe more if you feel it works.

Secret four: Challenge yourself to wear one bold statement piece. I am not talking about going full Lady Gaga. Leave that to the professionals. You may feel uncomfortable at first but after a few compliments you will be able to take the training wheels off and go a little bolder. Look for jewelry that stand on its own as a beautiful piece and pair it with a basic staple. Mix the chosen statement piece up each day. On the first day maybe a adorn yourself with the statement necklace, then next some great boots,belt or purse.

Secret five: Strive to dress as who you are, be realistic. Don't force yourself into stilettos, if that is not you, but fill in those spaces with other you own well loved pieces and styles that do appeal to your life.

Secret six: No more impulse buys sometimes a name brand is just a name and sometimes cheap just may be cheap.

Secret seven: Clean out your closet and get rid of ill fitting or non used items and try to organize your pieces based on possible outfits or in categories. Cleanliness in the closet is next to Chanelliness. Come on we all struggle with this, who hasn't found an item in their closet shoved so far back there it's in another time zone.

Secret eight: Dress without the extremes (don't try to look too old or too young). You don't have to dress your age so to speak but be aware when that ship has sailed. Don't forget to start underneath. Create a clean silhouette with undergarments like spanx or panties which leave no lines. Make sure your bra fits, I know you have heard this before but please it does work, if you aren't comfortable on the inside then what is the point.

Secret nine: Find what others and you decide is your most beautiful asset and highlight it. Maybe your eye color- wear that color every now and again, your laugh -wear something light and fun from time to time, your personality- show it in your clothing and use something with a whimsical feel, your legs or curves -show them off but leave something to the imagination. Stay in control of your image by accentuating the positive.

Secret ten: Make yourself happy on the inside. Maybe what it is that appeals to you about your icon is their lifestyle, hobbies or passions. Find yours or inspire from theirs. Devote a little time to just you and pursuing that love. Read, ride a bike, volunteer, join a photography class in your spare time, go hiking, riding, meditate or travel. In truth, it is our life and experiences that add to our look and inspire our fashion choices. In my jewelry box lie, many Brazilian indigenous necklaces which I acquired from working for years on something that I loved, my great grandmother's pin, my mom's necklace from the 70's all of which are reminders of a time and place which made me happy.

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Vintage Statement Pieces I'd Grab if I had a Time Machine-1940's Peacock Dress

This dress and its cut is so appealing, I love the peacock! Beautiful. She looks truly lovely and what a vintage find that dress would be today!

Circa 1940's.

I actually found a simlar vintage dress for sale on: Rococo Vintage on Etsy. Stunning!

Image by Rococo Vintage. Ceil Chapman dress. $786

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Vintage Statement Pieces I'd Grab if I had a Time Machine-This Wonderful Coat

This collar is amazing so architectural. I love the 20's shape and fit with this amazing unique collar.

Photo titled Monte Carlo and signed J. Tuzzoli, NY.

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African American Women, Fashion, and Photographs

African American women have been adding to, participating in, and influencing fashion and style in the United States for many years. We only really begin to see Black high fashion models in the late 80's, although women like Lena Horne were paving the way in mainstream media and entertainment much earlier. Women of color have often been looked over in the fashion industry and their history in terms of clothing and jewelry could be highlighted more. As an anthropologist, of indigenous and caucasian descent, this interests me as does women's studies in general. I run across various uncirculated and circulated images of fantastic Black women in wonderful clothes- so I wanted to add some here today. The history of women in wonderful vintage clothing is a rich one. Inclusion should be a part of art and fashion everyday- lets get inspired from all fashion icons!  If you have any vintage or historic fashion photographs of stylish African American/Black women please feel free to contact me or add them here. 

This 1800's image can be purchased at the shop diabolus on etsy.

 1899 Image see Dubois exhibit link below.

 Atlanta University, 1890's. Four women.

                                             

   1890's. Women in Dress.

                                                       

1920's image's author is unknown.

           1920's image author unknown. Stylish women in great coats.

Josephine Baker. Late 20's/30's image of Actress.

         Louise Ritchie 1930's actress.

                                                         

Dorothy Dandridge. 1940's Hollywood Image.

                      1940's/50's photo of bathing beauties original for sale at turntablebooks on ebay.

  Eartha Kitt-Stunning Fashion Icon. 1950's-60's image.

        I have always loved this photo: Donyale Luna - First African-American Cover Girl for magazine.

Online Articles of Interest:

See for more Period Images some by DuBois: flickr black heritage images.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/blackheritage/117889491

Article on Fredi Washington 1930's actress: FREDI WASHINGTON

http://kissingkitty.com/kissingkitty/FREDI_WASHINGTON.html

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Vintage Statement Pieces I'd Grab if I had a Time Machine- 20's Leisure

This velvet jacket looks so effortless and wonderful. I would definitely grab this one!
Photo from the library of Congress. No copyright restrictions known.

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Vintage Statement Pieces I'd Grab if I had a Time Machine- Those GLASSES

There are no Words!! I don't think I have to say much here. It going to be a love or hate vintage moment. I heart these. Going to the West Village and Soho vintage stores tomorrow to work on an article for you guys. I might even stop by Carries stoop:) Wish I had those glasses to wear tomorrow!

From the 1974 Collections magazine/ French

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Vintage Statement Pieces I'd Grab if I had a Time Machine-These Accessories circa 1870

This image was taken around 1870 during the early years of photography. It is not know if the photographer was Tancrede R Dumas but it is suspected to be his work. Her overall look is interesting and if we think to the styles of the 1970's, honestly this outfit could fit right in. I love the stripped tunic and her jewels!

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Vintage Rare Chanel Jewelry Collection-1stdibs/ NYC

If you have cash to burn this is your chance. 1stdibs is presenting a collection of Chanel Jewelry. Some amazing pieces are represented and this is a great chance to familiarize yourself with some of them. Milky Way Jewels has a great reference article on Chanel's Costume Jewelry.
http://www.milkywayjewels.com/chanel_jewelry.html



Chanel herself was a great collector of Amazing jewelry from various cultures. You can see the influence of India on her pieces such as the one on display at 1stdibs below. You can tell she studied them and her jewelry line, brought costume jewelry which was thought of as a less fabulous version of lux jewelry, to the forefront. Chanel's costume jewelry set the trend for costume babbles as high fashion!

http://vintageluxurychaneljewelry.avl.1stdibs.com/store/avl_search.php?FRID=ZGSYZZdllA%253D%253D


Image below 1stdibs:

From Chanel Avant Karl

Coco Chanel creating jewelery in her Paris atelier. Mark Shaw for LIFE Magazine in 1957.

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Vintage Statement Pieces I'd Grab if I had a Time Machine-This Divine 1920's Coat

This simply wonderful historic fashion photograph by Joel Feder in 1920 for S. Davis, NY shows the most divine coat. This is one for the books, the beading, the fur collar, the cut ah....If only...I would wrap myself up in it gladly on any fall day!

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Shrimpton Couture

If you haven't discovered Shrimpton Couture, if not for the eye candy alone, then for the fabulous vintage fashions. They are having a fun sale and listing great new items. I have chosen this MAJOR Oscar de La Renta Jacket circa 1980's to highlight. Shrimpton is kind of the 1stdibs (p.s. dibs has vintage now too) of Vintage pulling together their own collection and that of other power houses featured such as Judy & Jane Aldridge.

http://www.shrimptoncouture.com/main/index.php

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Vintage Statement Pieces I'd Grab if I had a Time Machine-Elizabeth Taylor's Cobra Pendant in Cleopatra

Elizabeth Taylor made an Amazing Cleopatra and her clothing was to die for! Egyptian Revival Watch Out! I would so snatch this cobra statement piece. Mid Century and Egyptian Revival- enough said. This image and her amazing makeup is from the March 1961 issue of Vogue.

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Appreciating, Understanding and Wearing Native American Jewelry

Many people own some form of Native American Jewelry, and such pieces have been in fashion for years. However, many people do not understand how the many designs relate to the specific symbols, beliefs and aesthetics of particular tribes and artists. Another aspect is the use of older pieces with no appreciation of them as anything other than matching an outfit. I will focus on the southwest and sterling pieces due to their popularity. However, there are many types of Native American jewelry some beaded, some in bone, seeds etc. Artists pour years of experience, decide what times of day might be best and allow the wearer to have access to amazing cultural and individual designs. I will demonstrate that really understanding the jewelry will help you find better pieces, wear them in more interesting combinations and connect with them in more meaningful ways.

Old Pawn:
Many old pawn pieces were sold during hard times and belonged to families as heirlooms. They are often unsigned although there are fakes coming out of china. In these cases they should demonstrate wear and some detail in craftsmanship especially when looking at how they hold stones into place with what look like little teeth. One common mistake people make right from the start is to clean this “tarnished” pawn jewelry. This can lower the value. These pieces in particular hold many layers of meaning. Due to their origins some cultural beliefs about older jewelry include the belief that a piece sometimes comes to you because it is meant to be cared for by you. Yet one should beware of where a seller might have gotten the item such as a burial or in a dishonest fashion. Such jewelry brings you bad luck.

Cultural Meanings:
A design example I have included is the first image of an older piece I own and love because of its meaning. It is sand-cast and holds in its center a design that represents the four worlds, mountains, corn and mother earth. Corn is central to the beliefs of the Hopi and the four worlds is significant as well. In this case I believe it is Navajo however, their beliefs have some similar core aspects to that of the Hopi.

Sand-cast:
This is a process the Navajo created in the 1860's in which one carves the design into two halves of a prepared soft sandstone (tufa). It involves about 4 days of work and is harder than one might assume. Vents are carved leading away from the design in the stone so that hot air can escape. One also has pour channels where the silver will be poured in. The stone is heated to prevent silver from sticking to it and then the artist can pour in the heated or molten silver. This is a very simplified explanation and there are various stages to the pours, both silver and air must be at a “good” temperature, and polishing the final piece is done in phases.

Navajo Jewelry and Meanings:
To the Navajo people, jewelry represents status and one wears their jewelry on special occasions to demonstrate wealth, family pride and status. They often layer many pieces to illustrate or wear their wealth. Some items are seen as cash and trades may be made. One example of use of such jewelry today for the Navajo would be an occasion such as weddings which would be the perfect example of when this might occur.




History tells us that art of silversmithing was brought to the Navajo by the Spanish. However, the Navajo took the techniques and made them their own. In their jewelry we see elements of Spanish influence such as the naja (A Moor design which looks like a half moon shape on many squash blossom necklaces) as well as Navajo values or designs. Designs such as the Spanish dome bead and pomegranate led to key components of what would become the squash blossom (see image 2). Yet, again in this case the Dine or Navajo borrowed and altered these designs. The Navajo did not start using turquoise set in sterling until the late 1800's. Beaded necklaces include those made of seashells and corals which are altered into amazing beads. Some are tube like, others are in the shape of a fetish animal (these can also be made of many stones). Fetish necklaces sometimes contain one or over 50 fetishes. A fetish is usually in the form of an animal. It is an early belief found in the southwest Zuni and other tribes since the beginning and is of great cultural significance. They can belong to and represent a clan, or even family. The wearer is protected by the spirit which lives inside or is embodied in the fetish. They are taken care of by their owners in various ceremonial ways. (See Image 3).


Zuni and Hopi:
Zuni work is often intricate polished inset stones in silver forming amazing designs. The stones in jet black, coral, shell and turquoise make up the core materials and overshadow the silver work underneath.
Hopi jewelry is heavily influenced by their pottery designs. They use and layers of silver to create an effect found in their jewelry. Hopi motifs include abstract designs, cornstalks, kiva elements and the Kokopelli. Hopi and Zuni artists did and continue to communicate concerning techniques and designs.

Kachinas to the Hopi are spirits associated with elements, living things, ancestors and life/death. There are over 500 kachinas maybe thousands, millions and they have rolls such as bringing rain and one example lives in the clouds. They oversee or take care of each of these aspects found in nature or the world. Dances are performed, dolls which embody them are made and even kachina jewelry exists. Their role is central to teaching children their culture and playing a part in the everyday natural world. So when wearing a Kachina ring remember who they are.



Finding Great Southwestern Jewelry:
In the 1970's southwestern jewelry became very popular and the size in both sterling and stones became larger. This is often how you can tell if a piece is from that era, are the stones chunky? I like this look, the bigger the better and I have a few of these items. Large stone bracelets or oversized squash blosooms are still popular. In the 1970's a new movement began in the world of the Native American silversmith which combined notions of 60's “modernism” with cultural designs. New materials such as gold were also used. The greats like Charles Loloma, Boyd and Richard Tsosie, Jesse Monongyne, Jimmy King Jr., Harvey Chavarria among many others commanded the market. So, now that you know their names you can look them up and see which styles you admire. Some works are still reasonable, but the pieces by those such as Loloma can be into the thousands. However, these are true artists and to own a piece is an honor and there is a price to be paid for craftsmanship.

Some of these “modernist” artists are still living. Other living artists are extremely talented and one can find them on the sides of the market at Santa Fe. Look for the Native American artists, sitting on the sides of the central market without booths for great quality pieces. The Navajo fair on the reservation in New Mexico during the summer months is a great spot for good artists and fair prices. Vendors also along the roadside near Shiprock New Mexico can be great finds. In the summer small Native run fairs spring up and are wonderful because you can speak with the artist. Older designs and 1970's items can be found at local estate sales or even on etsy or ebay (but be careful and do research on the piece/design so that you have comparables).

Possible web sources to familarize yourself with artist's work and or purchase from:

http://southwesternjewelry.net
http://www.sedonaindianjewelry.com/Jewelry/frames.html – This site has a lot of the masters like Tsosie so you can learn how to identify past work or buy current examples.

I have tried to impart specific yet basic level knowledge and tips in blog form which does not allow for complete anthropological or research level depth. For more information see:

Books:
Editor. Chalker, Kari. Totems to Turquoise.American Museum of Natural History.
Arizona Highways magazine. Older editions from the 1970's. Especially April 1979. Collector's Edition. The New Look in Indian Jewelry.
Shelby Jo-anne Tisdale. Fine Indian Jewelry of the Southwest: The Millicent Rogers Museum Collection.
The Beauty of Navajo Jewelry. by Theda Bassman, Gene Balzer.

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Vintage Statement Pieces that I would love to snatch if I had a time machine-This Emerald Dress!

This lady was a special woman who lived in Atlanta, Georgia. This photograph came from the Atlanta newspaper the AJC. Her home was decorated professionally in the 60's and she never changed it. When I first saw her clothing collection and home it was like I had just stepped out of a time machine. An Amazing Mad Men Mid Century Machine:). So, today's pic is of her in the most fab room wearing that piece- the JEWEL TONE DRESS. Wonderful vintage statement piece that would be fun to rock today! I purchased a collection of her clothing- a bubble gum pink wool coat and those curtains are in my personal collection. So in a way I did get to take a trip back in time and snatch up a wonderful statement piece.

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Vintage Statement Pieces I'd Grab if I had a Fashion Time Machine

Well, I thought it would be fun to post images of long gone or vintage one of a kind statement pieces that we wish we could get our hands on! I will try to find obscure adds and photographs to inspire you with....Today's Choices-

A Choker of Many Colors:

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Vintage Fashion Guild

If you have never heard of this site but love vintage please check it out at - http://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/#

The organization of world wide vintage lovers and experts offers a great time line and source for dating clothing labels. Highlights also include a forum where those new to vintage can ask for advice or info and a list of great books on vintage!

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