The art of the Kimono or “something to wear” in Japanese, is part of a culture which is passed down from mother to daughter. Traditionally, men and women both wore kimonos daily although there were various types. The kimono is put on the body right to left, folding the right side on your body then the left. The opposite is done only for funerals, something you might want to remember when putting on a kimono! Kimonos could show status or individual design taste in the choice of the sash or fabric. Japan opened itself up to outsiders in 1860 and thus began our affair with their art and fashion.
In the U.S., the use of a kimono in fashion has led to many hybrid looks as well as the use of vintage Japanese kimonos in our homes. The shape of the kimono has inspired sweaters, dresses and many designers. In the 1920's the appropriation of the kimono could be seen in dresses, the changing feminine silhouettes, robes/wraps and coats. During WWII Asian design began to enter the U.S more heavily. During the 50's and 60's we see various Chinese silk prints and dresses as well as the 50's style kimono sleeve on dresses and blouses. In 1971 Japanese designer Kenzo Takada, designer of the label Kenzo, introduced aspects of the kimono into his fashion designs. The silhotte was his inspiration; as seen in his use of the kimono sleeve, fuller short skirts, the use of kimono fabrics and drapping. This look began to infused high fashion and design in North America. The look is very wearable when fused with other elements. Chances are you have worn a kimono influenced design by accident or on purpose. Who has not seen a wonderful wrap sweater from the 70's with ethnic geometric designs and the bell or sleeves which widen at the end (the 70's version of the kimono sleeve)? I own several great ones! In Japan today there has been a rebirth in the kimono and it seems this wearable artform is here to stay. There is a lot of culture and art history behind the Japanese kimono and for those interested not only in our version please see the text, exhibit and film information below.
Publications in the area:
The Kimono Inspiration: Art and Art-to-Wear in America, edited by Rebecca A.T. Stevens and Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada, The Textile Museum, Washington, D.C., Pomegranate Artbooks, San Francisco, 1996. Soft cover, 208 pp, $34.95. ISBN 0-87654-598-3. (Also available in hard cover edition).
Current Exhibits include:
Fashioning Kimono: Art Deco and Modernism in Japan at the Birmingham museum of art. Read about the history and exhibit at:
http://www.artsbma.org/exhibitions/fashioning-kimono
Films:
Eat the Kimono. Claire Hunt and Kim Longinotto
England, 1989. The film is about Hanayagi Genshu, a Japanese feminist and performer.
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