Rare Bird of Fashion: The Irreverent Iris Apfel, Peabody Essex Museum
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
The art of the Kimono or “something to wear” in Japanese, is part of a culture which is passed down from mother to daughter. Traditionally, men and women both wore kimonos daily although there were various types. The kimono is put on the body right to left, folding the right side on your body then the left. The opposite is done only for funerals, something you might want to remember when putting on a kimono! Kimonos could show status or individual design taste in the choice of the sash or fabric. Japan opened itself up to outsiders in 1860 and thus began our affair with their art and fashion.
In the U.S., the use of a kimono in fashion has led to many hybrid looks as well as the use of vintage Japanese kimonos in our homes. The shape of the kimono has inspired sweaters, dresses and many designers. In the 1920's the appropriation of the kimono could be seen in dresses, the changing feminine silhouettes, robes/wraps and coats. During WWII Asian design began to enter the U.S more heavily. During the 50's and 60's we see various Chinese silk prints and dresses as well as the 50's style kimono sleeve on dresses and blouses. In 1971 Japanese designer Kenzo Takada, designer of the label Kenzo, introduced aspects of the kimono into his fashion designs. The silhotte was his inspiration; as seen in his use of the kimono sleeve, fuller short skirts, the use of kimono fabrics and drapping. This look began to infused high fashion and design in North America. The look is very wearable when fused with other elements. Chances are you have worn a kimono influenced design by accident or on purpose. Who has not seen a wonderful wrap sweater from the 70's with ethnic geometric designs and the bell or sleeves which widen at the end (the 70's version of the kimono sleeve)? I own several great ones! In Japan today there has been a rebirth in the kimono and it seems this wearable artform is here to stay. There is a lot of culture and art history behind the Japanese kimono and for those interested not only in our version please see the text, exhibit and film information below.
Publications in the area:
The Kimono Inspiration: Art and Art-to-Wear in America, edited by Rebecca A.T. Stevens and Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada, The Textile Museum, Washington, D.C., Pomegranate Artbooks, San Francisco, 1996. Soft cover, 208 pp, $34.95. ISBN 0-87654-598-3. (Also available in hard cover edition).
Current Exhibits include:
Fashioning Kimono: Art Deco and Modernism in Japan at the Birmingham museum of art. Read about the history and exhibit at:
http://www.artsbma.org/exhibitions/fashioning-kimono
Films:
Eat the Kimono. Claire Hunt and Kim Longinotto
England, 1989. The film is about Hanayagi Genshu, a Japanese feminist and performer.
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Associated Press Image of the Curtain Dress from: Gone with the Wind, 1939.
YOU CAN'T KEEP A STRONG WOMAN DOWN!
Scarlett JUST ripped those curtains down and created on the spot war couture in Gone with the Wind. Now the American archives need around 30,000 to restore the dresses worn by the iconic female lead in the film.
Walter Plunkett's CURTAIN DRESS is possibly the most important of the film for various reasons:
IT IS THE HUMAN SOUL RECONSTRUCTED, TATTERED BUT NOT BROKEN,OF DECADENCE LOST AND DIGNITY PRESERVED, A SYMBOL OF REBIRTH FOR A BROKEN NATION AND EMBODIES A WOMAN'S STRENGTH.
So, here is to preservation of vintage clothing and iconic women! Her determination to preserve her dignity won her an Oscar in the film and is an unforgettable inspiration to women everywhere. The pride of this woman as she walks on screen in the hand made dress while all hell breaks loose in the world around her is a part of the North American ideology!
THE CURTAIN DRESS IN TODAY'S TERMS:
In many ways this dress is a symbol for fashion in hard economic times such as those we face today. You find that vintage piece, make that dress from what you have, you find that bargain on something that looks like a million but costs $5 and pull it off! So should we bail it out? I am not sure. Would that be another example of our decadence while the world burns around us or a nod to determination and keeping your head up in hard times. Its fate is up to the public, but hopefully tomorrow is another day!
Gone with the Wind, film 1939.
We all love this dress and story! Check out the parody of the scenes by Carol Burnett from Carol Burnett's Went with the Wind:
Breakfast at Tiffany's: Audrey Hepburn
Victoria Beckham at Heathrow Airport
Vintage 1970's Trench
Jheri Richards Trench
Dark Passage the film 1947: Bacall and Bogart
Vintage 1960's Trench
Katharine Hepburn in 1950. Photo by World Wide Photo.
THE UNDENIABLE TRENCH:
The trench coat got its start in menswear for the military with both Burberry and Aquascutum stating that they designed the very first ones ever for War. Burberry is believed to have designed it for the British military before the first world war. So whether it was invented in 1850 or 1901 one thing is certain it is here to stay!
Harper's Bazaar brought us one of the first images of a woman in a trench coat in 1918. It has been reworked almost every fashion season: in leather, fur, faux,polyester,patterns and much much more throughout the years! This fall will be no exception so go for it, Be The Femme Fatale In Your Favorite Trench.
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Laurence Olivier and Merle Oberon in Wuthering Heights. 1939.
Top Romantic Lead Baby Boy Names!
1.Romeo- Sorry, this had to be on the list of course. Cliche but it just pops in your head.
2.Lucien- of French origin, meaning light. (No one is going to beat up Lucien)
3.Tristen- Celtic origin, soooo Legends of the Fall. Brad Pitt in the Good years.
4.Grayson- of English origin, meaning son of the Gray haired one. However, sounds like he would be in Greystoke: The Legend of Tarzan. Tough but Refined.
5.Nakotah- the original tribal name of the Yankton Sioux, now used as a name for boys.
6.Heathcliff- Intense, Wuthering Heights character and super hot antihero.
7.Akins- meaning brave in the Yoruba language. Nigerian.
8.Stefan- Means crowned in victory in German, cool... Steven lame.
9.Valentin-Means strong and healthy, of Danish and Latin origin.
10.Edward -Thanks to Twilight that name makes the list.
11.Hiro- Japanese name. Sounds like Hero!
Monday, August 2, 2010
Murals: Chic Mid Century Geometric elements for the Home!
Recently when touring a mid century home, I was inspired by a mural in the family room below which faced a wall of mirrors and outdoor pool view. The deep chocolate color and white elements bordered on Hollywood regency. The paint had a lacquered shine to the chocolate adding to the chic look. So, here is to trying a chic pattern on one wall!
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