The Dungeness, 1958.Philip E. Gardner, HABS photographer
JEKYLL ISLAND
There are few beaches left in the United States that preserve a sort of untouched appearance and tranquil vibe. The cultures that have influenced this region include the early North American tycoons of the 1920's, the cultures of the south, the local Native American groups, the colonizers, and the isolated populations of the Gullah (descendants of Africans).
The area I speak of is the southeastern coastal marshes, ocean views and islands off the coast of our state of Georgia. Jeykll island provides a landscape in which moss hangs from large old trees, beach goers travel by bike, mid century homes dot the area and one can set back and begin to understand the island's allure. Once the playground exclusively of the rich, those who live year round on the island, which is owned by the government, see it as a snapshot of Americana beckoning back to a simpler time when things moved at a different pace. The two things you cannot miss on the island are the Jekyll island Club (1888-1945) and the driftwood beach featured in the included images. The club is where tycoons such as Morgan, Roosevelt, and many others built this club to be their retreat and meeting grounds. It was said that the 6 most politically and financially powerful people in the world played at the club. Within the grounds there are various personal homes (or “cottages as they called them). The home J.P. Morgan, as some of the others are used for guests. While many are closed you may tour them on a rented beach cruiser aka classic bike. The club is now open to the public, and as a guest you feel as if you are back in time in a place of elegance and tranquility.
THE JEWEL OF THE ISLES
The jewel in the crown of the Georgia Isles is Cumberland island. The park area is government owned and the other point of the island is held by only a few elite families and the Gullah people. The Gullah church on Cumberland is where John F. Kennedy Jr. was married. The Gullah speak a kind of dialect made up of various African languages. They are very private and you have to have permission to cross into this area. This island has made and broken many a person. It has proven itself to be hard to conquer or own. It features, marshes, the Atlantic coast, sounds and little rivers. Wildlife abounds and one quickly realizes how preserved the natural coastline really remains. The home of the Carnegies and Candlers, the remains of their homes such as the Dungeness, the Greyfield, Plum Orchard among others are an amazing testimates to the past. The final Dungeness was built on an indigenous Timucan shell mound and over the former original home of the second Dungeness (1803). In total there were three Dungenesses, the final one built by the Carnegies in the 1880. Both the second and third burnt to the ground. Pictures of the Carnegie Dungeness exist, as it only burnt in 1959. If this seems like an intriguing saga, let me tell you this is only the tip of the iceberg. Lost loves, deaths, a rich history of cultures, colonization, and amazing natural setting all add to the mystic of Cumberland. I quickly realized that a large part of the story was the love affair and obsession between Lucy Carnegie, her Dungeness and the island. Her watchful eye attempted to keep the island as she saw fit, even after her death with the release of her horses. Many of these are the wild horses there today, a beautiful part of the history and debates. If you tour the island, the guide will fill you in on more aspects. However; in terms of the visit you have two choices: a one day stop or camping. You need to plan ahead and get back on the ferry at the appointed time or you are stuck! So again, some people stay and camp, rent a room at the Greyfield Inn or get back on the boat after a day spent on the beautiful island. So, take a chance and enjoy a trip to this special place which has evoked love, obsession or pure dislike. You either love it or hate it. I for one know that this is the beginning of a beautiful relationship between myself and the isles.
CUMBERLAND ISLAND DEBATES:
Should there be horses? Well, since it is hard to prove that some are not Spanish horses mixed with hers that is tough or that we should see everything Carnegie and pre -Carnegie as historic and therefore preservable. Some people believe anything not natural should be allowed to fade back and rot away -aka ecological versus historic preservation. Lease versus owning. Now only some families in the North own, the rest lease and handed it over to the government in an attempt to block development. If interested in the history take the government tour, read some of the books and ask questions. Should there be cars or car tours on the island. I am not sure on this, I would say locals only but educate them. Cumberland is preserved for that reason no cars and tons of people. People donated their homes to the government to try to preserve this place. Should you ride a bike- probably not. Walk it or don't ride it on the beach. There are tons of turtle nests which can be damaged. The infrastructure should be better developed so people can see the whole island in a day. Some of this is our we need it now culture, but I could see more boat access to the other homes or parts of the island. Again, the numbers of visitors per day are restricted as they should be, due to the ecosystem.
ISLAND FASHION
A great beach look I used when there was a vintage 1960's paper thin tunic, paper thin long white sweater and linen pants at night, havianna flip flops, oversized straw hat, canga (beach wrap) and a basic black bikini. Be sure to take shorts for your bike rides around Jekyll island to the driftwood beach.
For more information on the islands, history and cultures:
http://www.nps.gov/cuis/index.htm
Africanisms in the Gullah Dialect: by linguist Lorenzo Dow Turner in 1949. Discusses links between the West Africa and Gullah population of the Georgia Sea Islands.
Seabrook, Charles. Cumberland Island: Strong Women, Wild Horses
Mary R. Bullard, Cumberland Island: A History (Wormsloe Foundation Publication)
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