Exclusive: Vintage Fashion Shots by Gordon Parks

Exclusive: Vintage Fashion Shots by Gordon Parks! Check out this slide show of Vintage Fashion Images made by Gordon Parks. They are beautiful eye candy!

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If Marie Antoinette Wore Chanel: The 2013 Resort Collection

The runway at Versailles. Photo AP.

Met Museum Image. Robe à la française, ca. 1765

The Chanel Resort 2013 collection is sort of a fusion of the pop cultural elements associated with Marie Antoinette the icon (think the pastel wigs), 18th century design and a splash of -"If Marie were alive today how would she wear Chanel?". The model's gave off a sort of punk aristocratic vibe in their tennis shoes and pink hair. The show had no shortage of the theatrical and decadence! Marie herself would have been proud. The runway was indeed the palace Versailles and the backdrop the Louis XIV garden and fountain no less.  Karl looked like he was right at home. Karl is no novice when it comes to this era's designs! Let's face it his high crisp white collar and array of ties are a modern  chic take on the 1700's man's attire seen below.  Not to mention the fan we sometimes see him accessorize with!

Met Museum of Art Image.

As a lover of vintage fashion and history, I enjoyed his take on 18th century silhouettes and attention to detail.  There are a couple gowns, I think are particularly interesting and a jacket with  embellishment fit for a queen, see images below.

There are also some of the traditional Chanel nubby textiles reworked into great jackets. The embroidered bodices on the dresses are particularly indicative of the period, although again he has cleaned them up and minimized their overpowering aesthetic. The attention to detail most likely indicates that, although he did an amazing non boring take on the 18th century, he studied the embroidery.  Two books to examine for inspiration are: 18th Century Embroidery Techniques by Gale Marsh and Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century Fashion in Detail by Avril Hart and Susan North.

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

             Colonial Williamsburg Collection, Gown, 1745

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

  Met Museum of Art Archive. Rococo Jacket.

The Chanel Fashion show is not the first time Versailles has hosted a fashion icon. The exhibit held on July-October of 2008, housed throughout the palace called XVIII Century Back in Fashion Lagerfeld, McQueen, Westwood, Lacroix among other icons that were inspired by the era.  Also on display were some of the clothing of Marie Antoinette and a dress from Sofia Coppola's film. Maybe this experience and the her shoes inspired Karl Lagerfeld to take on Marie and the 18th century. One thing is for sure 18th century vintage and fashions inspired by the era are hot. Check out Dior's Fashion Film Secret Garden filmed inside Versailles.

Poster from the exhibit. Projectlena.com

VINTAGE STORES WITH 18TH CENTURY GOODS:

http://pastperfectvintage.com

http://www.vintagetextile.com

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Maginel Wright Barney's Capezio Flats

Maginel Ellen Wright Capezio Hand Embroidered Flats. Sarara Vintage.

Maganela Shoes. Circa 1950. Image Sarara Vintage.

These unassuming little Capezio flats have quite an interesting history.  I touched on their significance in a post on the Vintage Bulletin, but have resolved to discuss these in more depth here.  Most of you know the work of Frank Lloyd Wright but his sister who was born Margaret Ellen Wright was also a known artist.   She was the younger sister of Frank of course, but also a children's book illustrator (63 books total), fashion designer and author.  She was called Maggi Nell, short for Margaret Ellen which was then shortened to Maginel.   Born in 1881, she studied illustration at the Art Institute of Chicago, under Frederick Richardson.  Maginel created artwork well into her 80's.

Maganela Tag, The name of her fashion line. Image rights Sarara Vintage.

Her endeavors in the fashion world include an interesting history. One the Wisconsin Historical website  discusses in depth:

Close up of embroidery on the flats. Image Sarara Vintage.

"Maginel was inspired to take up needlework after seeing a peasant costume that belonged to her sister-in-law, Olgivanna Wright. After working for some time to improve the quality of her work, Maginel supposedly wore one of her brightly-colored, embroidered jackets to a party, where it was so appealing that she returned home with over twenty orders for others like it. Her high fashion items became so popular, however, that within a short time cheap imitations were being sold in department stores for a fraction of the cost of the custom-made garments.

Around 1940, changes in the world of fashion along with restrictions imposed by the current worldwide conflict combined to propel another of Maginel’s creative efforts to widespread popularity. Prior to that time she had often crafted fleece-lined felt slippers, which she blanket-stitched together and trimmed with beads, sequins, and bits of yarn as gifts for women friends and relatives. For male family members, Maginel made black felt scuffs on which she embroidered images depicting Adam and Eve. (Correspondence reveals that Frank received at least two pairs as Christmas gifts.) About this time the casual women’s shoes now known as “flats” or “skimmers” were introduced by the Capezio Company, which since its founding in 1887 had been known for fine quality footwear for dancers. In 1939 the firm introduced what it called the “ballet shoe,” their basic ballet slipper with a more substantial sole and low heel suitable for the street rather than the dance floor.

During this period Maginel was kept busy creating custom versions of the Capezio flat shoes and others which the company introduced around the same time. Through a friend who worked for the Capezio firm, she was able to acquire quantities of their basic models to which she initially applied custom decorations similar to those she had used on her handmade slippers. Later she added faux jewels and a variety of metallic braids as well as a small tag bearing her new professional name, Maganela. Instead of leather, however, Maginel’s custom Capezio shoes were made of colored felt, the choice of material dictated by wartime shortages of hides due to increased military demands for leather" (For more see: Maginel Wright Barney Fashion Bio).

I was also on the hunt for a portrait of Margaret, as well as images of other pieces from her line, but I could not find them online. Thus, one must go to archives, newspapers and such to begin a more in depth search. The fashion pieces are indeed very rare. These shoes were found in the collection of a woman who was in her 90's and had lived in the family Victorian in New Jersey. It had housed three generations of the same family, with history packed from all these generations in the attic, basement and closets.  I also acquired the family collection of Victorian and Edwardian clothing.

Bottom view of flats. Sarara Vintage.

I found the flats on one last look through the wardrobe. They were in what seemed to be an empty shoe storage case hanging in the closet. I reached inside and felt them. When I pulled them out I was surprised.  They were literally the last thing purchased from the collection. The little flats are embroidered with steel cut and glass beads. As an Anthropologist and fashion lover both Margaret's as well as their history appealed to me.  After various discussions with the Vintage Fashion Guild more was ascertained about what at first seemed to be cute 1940's flats.  The date seems to be pinned to the 1950's maybe late 1940's.  I thought it would be worth discussing in more details here and I hope you enjoyed them.  You can see various views of the shoes for sale at Sarara Vintage. They will be moved to Sararacouture.com coming soon. I am pulling together all of my couture, designer and runway/antique stunner pieces for this site.  I will also merge my jewelry designs there where one can commission pieces.

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Vintage at the Met Gala 2012

The Met Gala was as visually pleasing as one could dream this year, with some amazing little numbers like that of Gwyneth Paltrow in Prada, Nina Dobrev in Donna Karen, Emma Stone in Lanvin and Camilla Belle in Ralph Lauren just to name a few.  I particularly liked how Camilla channeled the old hollywood 1930's vibe in such an effortless chic way.

Camilla Belle in Ralph Lauren. Met Gala 2012. Getty .

However, vintage had its moment on Coco Rocha. Her Rich Yellow Givenchy Pant Suit made a fashion statement alongside its pink details. I am not sure if I'm on board with the pink and yellow then there is the hair- but I give her a mention for the Givenchy.  This is not a look for everyone and some say it is a worst dressed and others that it's just informal in terms of the Met.    Yet, I have to applaud her for remembering that the Met holds some of the most amazing and important vintage clothing in its collection and it is fitting to wear vintage!  That said, I think I would have indeed liked to have seen a more formal approach.

Coco Rocha. Met Gala 2012. Vintage Givenchy.Getty.

The Gala also hosted a discussion worthy 1960's inspired dress and a 70's/80's inspired gown.  Karolina Kurkova's wearing a custom Rachel Zoe sequin gown and turban was a moment that I actually found sort of right on for the event. It was glamour, fashion forward, yet vintage inspired and harkened to a sort of fashion history. But of course not a look that's going to look cool on just anyone. That said I dug the Dynasty of today statuesque look!

Karolina Kurkova. Met Gala 2012.Rachel Zoe Dress, Fred Leighton jewels. Getty Image.

Chloe Sevigny's Mui Mui dress must also be mentioned, as we think on all things vintage.  It, of course, is sort of a modern black take on Paco Rabanne's famous mod link dress embodied ultimately by his work with the clothing for Barbarella.  Again, some people liked the look and others not so much. I am on the fence, I love Chloe and I get where she was going- I mean she was wearing vintage like 5 minutes after birth.

Chloe in Mui Mui. Met Gala 2012. Press Image.

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20's Gangster Chic?

Tag from 1920's Cape. Sarara Vintage.

Finding this amazing cape in crepe with stunning embroidered details was a highlight. However; as I dug deeper into the maker, I came across the Blackstone Hotel in Chicago.  The cape itself has a tag stating Blackstone Shop, millinery gown, Chicago.  After finding no shops existing under this name, I found that the infamous Blackstone Hotel had a barbershop and I began to wonder if it had a millinery shop.  I still have no positive confirmation on that but will keep digging! The clue might be in the way Blackstone is written with the B and K... there may be similarities.

1920's Crepe Cape. Sarara Vintage.

The Blackstone hotel was built between 1908-1910 and is actually still taking guests today. After a long history which includes, being part of the very first Chicago gangster crime convention held in 1931 by Charles Lucky Luciano and frequented by famous stars,presidents and by Al Capone, it still stands today.  Falling into disrepair at one point, it was restored/reopened in 2008 and is run today right off the magnificent mile! See more on the history: Chicago History Journal.

Blackstone Hotel Lobby, after renovation. Blackstone Hotel


See Architectural images and history at: http://www.lucienlagrange.com/portfolio/project/the_blackstone_hotel/

You can probably see why I deviated from the search for the shop, to the Blackstone itself! Historical affiliation or not the hotel itself is amazing!  The history and architecture inspirational.  As for the cape it does captures that moment in design. Its lovely details circa the late teens -1920's also capture one's imagination.  All you need now is to wear the cape to an evening event at the hotel and your set.  Whether for inspiration, wear, bridal or evening this is an amazing piece of fashion history is piece I wanted to share with you!

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PATRICIA VON MUSULIN JEWELRY: Body Sculpture and Future Vintage Jewelry to Collect

         1970's/80's inspired French Vogue 2011 Photoshoot by Hans Feurer featuring her jewelry.

If you have not discovered Patricia Von Musulin's work then today is the day. If you already know her jewelry you may not have seen some of the pieces pictured in this post so enjoy! Patricia is truly an artist molding natural forms, which seem to be living beings, for us to wear on our arms, fingers, necks and ears. There is a modern feel to her work which is striking yet grounded by her material choices and shapes. She hit her stride as a designer in the 1990's and was featured in various fashion magazines. Her work is highly sought after by fashion collectors and wearers alike. If ever there was a jeweler to collect, it would include her body of work.


By definition most vintage sellers and collectors focus on vintage as encompassing the 1970's/80's and earlier. However, again collecting her 1990's pieces - which will be vintage in 10 years seems like a great idea. Heck, by some standards it is already considered vintage. Either way I consider it a must! See her current designs at: http://www.patriciavonmusulin.com/index2.html


I favor her cuffs in lucite, bone and wood. The large decadent swirls wrapping and morphing around one's wrist, ah! The met museum actually has begun to build a nice archive of her work that can be seen online. She has also donated some of her work to the museum, which can be seen online at :http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80004636

         1970's/80's inspired French Vogue 2011 Photoshoot by Hans Feurer featuring her jewelry.

                   Sold on Ebay by Willowbrookantiques, this piece was pulled for a Vogue photoshoot.

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