Flapper Wedding: Ruby's Dress, Circa 1927

Sarara Vintage Styling of Ruby Becker's Wedding Dress, 1927. Shary Connella photography.

My quest for great art deco era clothing and jewelry has yielded up a find.  Whenever interesting or well preserved I try to share these acquisitions here with you. 

Sarara Vintage Styling of Ruby Becker's Wedding Dress, 1927. Shary Connella photography.
This is an especially sentimental little treasure in my eyes, a 1920s wedding dress, prepared and archived by it's original owner complete with graduation announcement, ostrich feathers, lace hankie, and silk floral pin. 

Archival images by Sarara Vintage

When I opened the box for the first time I found all the items neatly arranged, probably labeled sometime more recently due to the permanent marker inscriptions-done by Ruby herself in her later years.
                                             

Images by Sarara Vintage, Corsage, open box...

Inscribed: "My Wedding Dress and Corsage. Grad announcements and Class Colors" with her name to the side.  On the top of the box we see a label pertaining to the original box seems to have been reused. It has the name Warren P. Fulton and Frannie Wyoming on it, possibly the date of 35... The note inside states the wedding date as 3-17-1927. The same year of her graduation per the card inside. 

Graduation Card image, Sarara Vintage.

The style of this dress and accessories is truly flapper in character. Many people describe 20s dresses as "flapper" when they technically are not "flapper" in design.  This dress has the shorter length, drop waist and long sash as well as the original ostrich feathers. The two feathers used in our photographs were bent in a circle at their ends most likely pinned in the hair or on a band which was not preserved.  We placed the ostrich feathers to the side sort of angled and pinned in the hair.From the style of the dress is seems that Ruby Becker had a flapper wedding in 1927! Not much is known about her life, indeed all I can find so far is just that is was from Wyoming probably Frannie and graduated from high school in 1927.  Frannie Wyoming today has a population of about 200. I would love to find a pic of our Ruby but for now let's enjoy her wonderful wedding dress.

Sarara Vintage Styling of Ruby Becker's Wedding Dress, 1927. Shary Connella photography.

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Greta Garbo's Effects Auctioned off with a Capital G

Well, an icon of film Greta Garbo's auction just came to a close at Julien's auction house in California. The auction house often handles the personal effects of celebrities, but none more famous than miss Garbo. Her films and photographs during her golden age in the 20s and 30s remain spectacular. She lived a long live and even today her legend continues on and the prices the pieces fetched really cemented that fact.  In truth Greta will never be "Left alone", she was well frankley too fabulous.  The image below provided by the Julien's catalogue which said;

"A portrait of Greta Garbo in The Single Standard (MGM, 1929) by Ruth Harriet Louise. Vintage gelatin silver print on double-weight matte paper. Photographer's blind stamp lower right, photographer and MGM credit stamp on verso.

13 by 10 inches". Sold for 1,024.

 

Portrait of Greta Garbo in The Single Standard (MGM, 1929) by Ruth Harriet Louise. Vintage gelatin silver print on double-weight matte paper. 

What I learned from watching the auction today and yesterday was -Number one there is a buyer for items with big G's on them. I loved those accessories as well....so GARBO.  Her iconic stamp on them appealed to the bidders. Also a nice coincidence that the big G also graces many Gucci items!  She had a few such items from Gucci. Number two is that Garbo and the bidders were serious about shoes. They fetched very high prices and she had an extensive collection. Number three, she LOVED the color turquoise...Something we have in common!

Today and yesterday's items included Louis Vuitton, Pucci, Gucci, lesser as well as other known designers. Many of the pieces were featured in the book Greta Garbo: The Mystery of Style edited by Stefania Ricci (Milan: Skira, 2010). This was a sale that appealed to fashion collectors, movie collectors and fans.  I fully expect to see some pieces in high end vintage stores tomorrow for much high prices. I myself thought of bidding but knew I would keep whatever item I won and held back!  Although the list of what I could afford was about a handful of things that reached from 200-2000 a splurge but nothing compared to some of the hammer prices. Many of which were over 8 times the original estimate.  

The auction seemed to encompass her later vintage attire from the 50s-70s. In my heart however; I know the family or someone retains much of her earlier clothing and jewelry. The 20s skirt, if I am not mistaken, was the oldest piece. Either they have them or these items were not preserved. I assume however there are some spectacular early Garbo items in a vault somewhere!

You can view the full catalogue from today's auction here.

My favorites from the auction- I would have loved to have purchased the 1920s skirt and for its relationship to film and age the price was actually not bad at 1,600.  See the Julien Catalogue above for final hammer prices:

Image and description from Julien's catalogue: "A striped skirt believed to have been purchased in Istanbul in 1924 while Greta Garbo was in Turkey for an attempted but unmade film, "The Odalesque from Smyrna." The skirt is in bands of color, each formed into a knife pleat. At the front center stripe is an embroidered image with arabesque motifs" 

Image and description from Julien's auction house: "A pink cone shaped hat with textured net overlay. The net overlay has darker pink felt polka dots embedded in the fabric. Known by the family to have been made by Valentina for a privately staged production in which Garbo played a clown with friends in the 1950s. 

Previously exhibited Museum of the City of New York, Valentina : American Couture and the Cult of Celebrity , February 14, 2009 through May 17, 2009"

Image from Julien's Catalogue-Louis Vuitton steamer used for her shoe collection during travel. Appears in the book Greta Garbo: The Mystery of Style edited by Stefania Ricci (Milan: Skira, 2010) and previously exhibited: Museo Salvatore Ferragamo, Greta Garbo: The Mystery of Style , February through September 2010. 

1890s Glazed Vase from Garbo's home. Image by Julien's Auction house.

Gucci bag owned by Garbo. Image by Julien's Auction house.

1970s dress worn by Garbo, I love this, its so wearable and stylish. No label.  

In the book Greta Garbo: The Mystery of Style edited by Stefania Ricci (Milan: Skira, 2010) and previously exhibited: Museo Salvatore Ferragamo, Greta Garbo: The Mystery of Style , February through September 2010. Image by Julien's Auction house.

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Chloe Fall Winter 2011/12: A little 1930s glam style holiday dress inspiration!

Photos by J.T. www.stylerumor.comI wanted to take a look back at Chloe's evening wear from the Fall/Winter 2011-12 collection in order to provide some holiday evening wear inspiration.  These little gems sort of slipped passed me last year, until I walked into the display at a very high end outlet-yeah I said it a Chloe, Prada, Oscar, YSL, Missoni, Tori Burch,  and on.. all in actual outlet boutiques...and they exists just outside of NYC! (That said don't expect "outlet" prices but a 5,000 dress for 1,000 type sale).  The window of the Chloe boutique was right out of an old film. The two mannequins oozed dinner at the Blackstone Hotel circa 1932....

Chloe boutique window. Image Sarara Vintage.

Anyway, the dresses in person were beautiful and by the way nicely discounted, all of them together made quite a visual impact for the lover of all things vintage or vintage inspired!

Chloe Fall 2011/12 dress. Image Sarara Vintage.

My favorite from the collection, which also walked the runway, was the black 30s style art deco gown. See the first image at the top. It even has a crepe feel to it in person and the art deco golden lock detail at the plunging neckline is so Old Hollywood. The cut of the dress was spot on for a 30s dress, I was impressed.  The other wonderful dresses present included a sort of coppery burgundy metallic fabric piece and a champagne toned gown. There was also a beautiful bolero style evening wrap/jacket.  The whole take on the 30s was modern yet so classic.  The textures all added to the luxurious feel. 

Images by Sarara Vintage. Chloe boutique. Chloe Dresses, Bolero.With that said what can we take from this?   A. the 30s gown for evening just never gets old, B. there is a high end designer outlet mall  C. It is called Woodbury outlets  D. If one cannot afford a Chloe gown even on discount think -a long black dress, open neckline with authentic deco paste stone jewelry for that glittery old hollywood look.  E. Find such an art deco era black dress.

1930s Voided Velvet Leaf Dress. Image Sarara Vintage. Dress at Sarara Vintage Etsy.

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Egyptian Revival YSL Necklace sells for $8,000

Charles A. Whitaker Auction Company Image. See complete listing here.

This necklace was quite frankly stunning and a great example of the 70s Egyptian Revival style.  It was part of the Fall Couture Fashion and Textile Auction held by Charles A. Whitaker Auction Company.  Here is a link to some of the lots sold during the November 28-29th auction.

Charles A. Whitaker Auction Company Image. Fortuny Delphos Gown. Sold lot.

Their vintage couture and designer auctions have some must have items for the serious collector. Examples like 1950s Christian Dior, French 1920s Couture and a Fortuny Delphos  1930s Gown
appeared on the block. Stunning as the YSL necklace is I don't think anyone expected it realize same price that of the Delphos gown was estimated to sell for that day. I know I was not prepared for the final price when the gavel hit-$8,000!

Now I had my eye on this particular piece and actually purchased some others items from them for my store/collection.  That said the original auction estimate was around $250 which did not seem unreasonable until you look closer.  From what I know of YSL there were the designer level pieces made by Monet for YSL with a cut out YSL in the horizontal box, the signed and numbered or Limited edition items and then couture jewelry. Tag style of course letting you in on which is which. However, tags are not always the whole story as this tag below can be on couture and non couture pieces. Many of the haute couture pieces confirmed my same collector source have no tag. Whatever the reason for the sale price, I was stunned at that necklace and many other wonderful vintage pieces of fashion that day. After speaking to a very knowledgeable collector of YSL jewelry she confirmed it was haute couture and very special having obvious influence from the African collection. She also was pretty sure if "something YSL goes that high the Yves Saint Laurent foundation is probably bidding". See the link for more on the auction company and their upcoming events. As of now the November 2012 auction is up but this link will be updated closer to the next sale. 

Close up image of tag. Charles A. Whitaker Auction Company Image.

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Vogue October 1925: With The Mode. The most beautiful scarf ever...If only I had a time machine.

Photograph by Steichen, Vogue 1925.  Scan property of Sarara Vintage.

From time to time I find an old image or ad with a piece of fashion history that I would love to own. I call these my if I had a time machine posts. Currently, I am putting together a post on the coats in fashion for the fall and winter of 25 right now. As I was taking a break looking through the summer-June First  of 1925 Vogue when I saw magic.  I found this wonderful image of a stunning hand made one of a kind scarf.  It is everything that the era was -so deco so lux.  The photograph by Steichen itself is pure art!  I focused in on the item and have scanned it here for you to enjoy as well.  The title of the spread is Modernistic Art Has a Daring Way With The Mode.  

Photographs by Steichen, Vogue 1925.  Scans property of Sarara Vintage.

The images display four glorious pages of what they call the "modern spirit" hand colored onto silk frocks and scarfs.  The designs are proudly attributed to New York at the Colour Studio- not from France.  Most fashion trends of the time did come from France and many Vogue previews and such discuss the new trend hot from France.  I am in love with the first scarf but perhaps you will fall for a frock.   I love learning new things and Colour Studio of New York was news to me.  However, it was love at first sight.  I mean those scarfs are huge works of silky art!

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1920s Velvet: Fashion Service Magazine

I have been working on gathering up my magazine archives and adding to them.  I am focusing on the 1920s and 30s right now. I have just added two Vogue magazines from the 1920s to the collection.  I will be sharing some of those images here on the blog. They are great sources for fashion inspiration and vintage collectors. The Fashion Service Magazine was published under the Women's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences.  This little 16 page publication contained new millinery styles being discussed, women's financial security and business opportunities, daytime frocks, the mode for autumn, winter outfits and Halloween ideas.

Fashion Service Magazine Illustration. Alice Seipp.  Image archive by Sarara Vintage.

The issue I own is the October 1928 edition. The illustration I chose to bring you is that of the cover, by Alice Seipp. Alice illustrated and wrote articles on the current fashions.  Alice was born in 1889 and a known illustrator based in New York City.  This particular cover image seen above, pertained to the inside article on page 11- How to Handle Velvet.  It is described as: "an afternoon frock of sheer velvet, the acme of chic among fabrics, in wine red, as suggestive of the season as the color of ripening fruits"(Fashion Service).  Firstly, why doesn't anyone write about fashion like this anymore! Wow, so delicious.  The article discusses how to sew and handle velvet.

The Fashion Service was a publication by the Women's Institute as mentioned, which was meant to school women and young seamstresses in the current techniques, patterns and styles.

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Happy Halloween: Deco Style

Well, as you all dress your children or selves for the witching hour. I just wanted to provide some last minute Art Deco inspiration!  Happy Halloween....

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Brooke Shields in Sarara Vintage Couture 30s-40s Gown

I am back from the Manhattan Vintage Show and as usual I saw some to cry for vintage and met some new clients.  Now.....from time to time, I get to send on my finds to stylists working with actors or magazines, but this time I had the pleasure of working first hand with none other than fashion icon/actress Brooke Shields!

Sarara Vintage photograph. 1918-1920 Silk Caftan and Brooke Shields in 30s/40s crepe dress.

She stopped by to admire a wonderful 60s Pucci tank in classic chocolate tones but walked out with a 30s-40s gown that fit like it had been made for her.  And yes everyone, she is stunning at 40 (no makeup, florescent lighting..) but above all well spoken and very sweet.  So, yes the show has actors and famous magazine editors perusing the booths to admire the wears, but I got an icon-done and done.

Her older female companion admired the dress and I pulled it quickly because it hit me right then and there that this was going to be magic. This dress had painstaking elegance with tiny matte gold beads hand embroidered on it with cappuccino toned crystals.

We held our breath as she slipped it on "like butter". I have almost never seen something go on someone and literally be just right.  The two of them made a glam duo. It fit in all the right places then cascaded down to the ground.  This dress, as we commented together, would be great for holiday parties or even a red carpet- depending on the event.  And I swear a tear came to my eye to see her in it without any preparation although she mentioned she would email a pic of her all dolled up on the red carpet or at a party.

Worried I because I had never documented the dress, she graciously allowed me to photograph her in it right there.  I had just found the dress really and had absolutely no time to photograph it on the dress form yet.

What gave me the most satisfaction is that this gown was taken care of by someone who must have saved it carefully with the hope it could live on someday and honestly it was my pleasure to bring them together. I love to think this older woman, who must have worn this only once, carefully placed it in tissue never knowing it would go from old hollywood to the real deal.  I find satisfaction in giving these dramatic pieces life again. Especially, anything from the deco eras the 20s-early 40s.  I admit I gravitate towards these gowns and just found a light berry red long 40s dress embroidered on the front with gray beads that would be such a great holiday party dress-  Brooke call me:) My next victim I am stalking may be more 60s-70s Oscar or Pucci than deco but rest assured it will be a gown.

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A 1930s Dress and The Mummy 1932

1930s (40s)Plaid Silk Taffeta Gown. Sarara Vintage Image.

What could these two things have in common? Well, if you look to my September post; why I am in love with late 1920s gowns-I have clearly been enamored with the deco gown especially the late 1920s pieces.  My focus has been on first processing and researching the 20s gowns from the estate mentioned in my previous post. Those two have since gone to a private collector.  But, I still had one of her gowns left and after looking at examples and the garment construction it was clearly a 1930s gown in design-it is homespun so I am currently dating it to make sure its not 40s. There is no serged inside seams, just raw... But it has metal zipper to the back so this could indicate a later date or alteration.  It actually sat for about 3 weeks without being photographed.  Then, I watched the 1932 film by chance, The Mummy, starring Boris Karloff and as soon as our heroine, Zita Johann, appeared wearing the most divine long metallic thread gown I was mesmerized.

The Mummy. Universal Pictures Film Poster. 1932

These 1930s styles... oh the long gowns, the bodices, the construction, the prints and fabrics....  Now my dress is silk taffeta and has an incredible corset type material constructed in the hip area giving it structure.

Shimpton Couture gown, click on the link below. Image by Shrimpton Couture. 

A similar wonderful era gown is offered by Shrimpton Couture currently, which lends credence to their design history (see the dress above). Notice the similar lengths, fabric choice, bodice and pleating construction around the hips. These silk plaid fabric dresses would make for lovely additions to collections or party dresses, especial this season.

The Fashion of Zita, The Mummy 1932:
Now for a closer look at the costumes/wardrobe of The Mummy's female lead.  One can only say amazing!

The Mummy Film Still, Universal. Zita in Metallic 1930s Party Gown.

From the opening party gown to the suit dress with deco large geometric buttons, to her final Egyptian ensemble, one is hard pressed to pick a favorite.

Zita's suit dress, The Mummy 1932. Universals promo photograph.

Her clothing is everything one wants -old hollywood, glam, unique, chic and so 1930s!

Zita as Helen, The Mummy 1932. Universal promo Photograph.

Zita as the princess, Helen. 1932 The Mummy. Universal Photograph.

The Mummy, promo photograph of Zita Johann. 1932. Universal Studios.

Film stills of Zita in Embroidered Moroccan style lounge wear. Sarara Vintage. 

Similar to Zita's party dress. Amazing Gold Lame 1930s gown. Sold on Ebay by rp vintage. Images by rp vintage. 

       

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April 1956, Vogue Cover

I have been collecting a variety of vintage fashion magazines for reference, and I just found this Vogue recently. The ads are great. Even a wonderful, yet simple photograph of Grace Kelly is featured inside.  I am working at stocking up on 1920s fashion magazines as well, to bring you some great fashion shots from the Art Deco era.  The rich rose reds here are so lush, so enjoy this fashion flashback!

Cover of Vogue April 1956. Sarara Vintage Archive.

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From Jekyll Island to the Island of Manhattan

Vintage Dashiki Caftan. Sarara Vintage. Jekyll Island.

As I finish getting ready to go to the island of Manhattan for the Vintage show in Chelsea, aka the Manhattan Vintage show, I pondered last week's quick break.  Sometime during mid September, as I lay in a pile of stunning vintage finds, I was preparing for the show and thought should I- could I-dare I-take a break?  I have always loved the Jekyll and Cumberland Island Georgia, for their slow pace and unspoiled beaches. Besides, hey its just a drive down the east coast.  So I cut and ran.

                           

Glory Beach Image, Sarara Vintage.

 I had not been back in 3 years, but quickly settled in.  Vintage wise, I took my large 70s leather vintage duffle and my favorite faded 60s Dashiki dress (this was its second visit to the island).  I am not sure if it was originally red, but now it is the perfect paper thin coral color...see the first image above.

Images of Driftwood Beach and Glory Beach, Jekyll Island. Image property of Sarara Vintage.

What is so special about Jekyll?  Well, some would complain that the water is hardly vibrant blue, due to the location on the east coast and the flow of the marshes into the ocean at points.  However; I love the marshes and spanish moss.  Plus, Jekyll is a vintage architecture lover's dream.  You'll be hard pressed to find a home build after the 60s on the island. See Mid Century Homes Jekyll Island. There are great beach houses, circa 1960s that demonstrate soaring mid century glass windows and construction. Not to mention the Historic Island Club. The former playground for American royalty, featuring their beach homes and the main club house.

Jekyll Island Club and cottage views. Sarara Vintage Images.

 My favorite time to escape to the 50s bungalows on the island is in September, which is ironically what the old socialites (many from NYC) of the club did who "wintered" in their  Jekyll "cottages".  The Pulitzers, Morgans, Rockefellers....to name a few. There are some interesting love stories, relatively less known families, as well as the pre club history to take in as well. The weather is ideal in the early fall, in the 80s, which caused quite a shock to me as I returned and was greeted by 50s-60s rainy weather in NY.

Glory Beach, shrimp boat early morning, Sarara Vintage image.

Now, I know as I loaded up the man and baby,  I should have be thinking fall fashion but really I'm just on trend with fashion week right?  It's Spring/Summer 2013 no?

1970s Turquoise jewelry, Navajo. Sarara Vintage image.
Back and refreshed and ready I set out this week on fine tuning the collection that I am bringing to the Manhattan Vintage Show Oct 12th-13th!  Including the turquoise bracelet above, which is so cool....

manhattan vintage show

Books about Jekyll Island:

This is a new publication, two of my images were featured inside. It's a great coffee table book. Image property of  author

The Jekyll Island Club, Images of America is a short text which has the history laid ou, images and is easily read.  The newest book by Pamela Mueller, blends historical fact and fiction, is entitled Splendid Isolation. Finally a good starter for Cumberland Island is Cumberland Island Strong Women, Wild Horses.

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