Tuesday, May 14, 2013

The Pin Up What's in It For Us? From Gibson Girls, Betty Paige to Today's Gal


Photography by Rich Croland, Antique Boylans Truck. Model Jennifer Rogers, rights reserved.
In terms of our society's vision of the female body, the early pin up images celebrate the female form.  Scholars discuss the origins of this girl beginning with the Gibson Girls of the 1880s, gaining strength in the calendar art of the early 1900s. By the 20s sexuality was in and the cat was out of the bag. Hemlines rose exposing one taboo part of the ankle and legs after the other. Female bodies were however, very androgynous. Flappers wanted that boyish look so that they could play down some of the restricted feminine shapes sculpted by the girdles of their mothers.  The Ziegfeld Follies gals of the 20s were like real life pin ups and inspired early artists like Alberto Vargas! With the help of such well trained eyes, such as Vargas, the golden age of pin up art in the 1940s was ushered in. Today, what was considered risky is now just, well not.... This end really came in the 1960s as concepts once again changed. 
Alberto Vargas, pin up image, rights reserved.
As a visual anthropologist, I have studied gender and the sexualization of the female form as well as how these notions fluctuate in societies. I understand both sides of the coin. Yet, in terms of pin ups, it is not really so black and white. After watching a documentary style film on Betty Paige, I have a new appreciation for the history of pin up.  Her life story is really quite interesting. Was she pushing sexual boundaries and control of her own image? For the vintage world now, women like Dita Von Tesse appeal, because they evoke the shapes that once filled the vintage dresses we now admire.  They highlight the appreciation of a past erotic history as art. 

Photography by Rich Croland, Antique Boylans Truck. Model Jennifer Rogers, rights reserved.
My intern recently brought to my attention a wonderful collection of pin up photograph images done of her in the "vintage style".  Her images are sweet and evoke that symbolism, yet show no skin. This image above of Jen is actually more realistic- the pants of the factory girl.  A sort of Rosie meets pin up. The photographer of these images needed more portfolio pics and Jen was dying to have some pin up shots done-so here we are! I love the concept of capturing your vintage self.  I think the 40s gals are especially relatable, because while they worked in factories and held down the home front during the war, they were also mothers, sisters, wives, girlfriends, and grandmothers.  It is precisely this feminine strength that lovers of the 40s look strive for.   My own grandmother worked in a bomb making factory during this time. For a look at what women were wearing outside of the pin up fantasy see Sammy Davis Vintage's 1940s Women's Clothing post.

Jen's photo shoot is a celebration of her love of all things vintage!  I swear if it weren't for her 40s-50s outfits I wouldn't have gotten as much interest at our Manhattan Vintage Show booth! Thanks Jen. Her army themed images evoke these strong 40s factory women, as well as the soldiers beloved pin ups.   I guess it goes back to that old question, can we as women be in charge of our image, be sexy and strong?
Photography by Rich Croland, Antique Boylans Truck. Model Jennifer Rogers, rights reserved.
Why do we see a returned interest in pin ups? I have noticed women recently doing these photo shoots, some to feel a little more glam or beautiful. If you aren't interested in that take, a look at the biographic information related to pin up gals like Betty Paige may appeal to you. I relate to her because of her southern mixed heritage and wit. Others may relate to her for various reasons. Her images celebrate the female form and her own struggles in terms of taking control of her sexuality and career.  There will always be a divide -you can see that in the extreme shapes of the 80s where women dressed like "working girls" in almost male type suits, hiding their bodies. This was an effort to gain equality in the workforce and a reflection of changing roles. In my opinion in many ways, during the 1940s you kind of have the best of both worlds-strong feminine women with Joan Crawford shoulders and Paigesque bodies.

Personally, I love the vintage look they evoke and how one can explore their own beauty. As a strong opinionated gal, I have traditionally tried to avoid the whole- feminine body on show- aesthetic. Yet, recently I have been interested in the stories behind these gals. Especially, after acquiring magnificent jewelry used on stage by a Las Vegas showgirl in the 60s via another contact. I found myself loving the larger than life slightly sexy, but strong bold pieces like the slave bracelets and huge cuffs.

Another positive is that the pin up today is inclusive of curvy shapes.  This was very obvious in Double Divas, LiviRae Lingerie's pin up shoot. The episode aired on their new television show. Molly was urged to do one such shoot. Her fears were that of showing her plus size body in a sexy way. I would say it was a fun episode and did empower her in terms of her own self image.



So in today's post I celebrated my wonderful intern Jen's colorful images, that put a smile on my face. I hope you enjoy this retro imagery as well as revisiting the history of the pin up.


Online articles about the history of the pin up:
http://www.arthistoryarchive.com/arthistory/pinupart/
http://www.kentsteine.com/history.htm
http://www.thepinupfiles.com/vargas2.html#.UZJtdL9KMy4
http://www.bettiepagemovie.com

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