Sunday, May 19, 2013

Own Your Look! How To Get A Vintage Friendly Closet (ON A BUDGET or NOT)

1950s Tulle dress, custom. Sarara Vintage, Shary Connella- rights reserved. 
I feel that serious wearers of vintage, find their love of such historic pieces because of the unique fashion forward aesthetic that it offers.   Couture pieces are so expensive because they are just that: rare, one of a kind, and custom. You can get that look with vintage due to the rarity of some finds. We all have reasons for loving vintage- the sense of history, maybe we love X designer and collect. BUT that is very different than how and why we should wear it.

Whether one is on a budget or not, these rules can be applied with success. We have all known people whose fashion sense was a mess because they had too much money with no direction (looking like a designer walking billboard) or didn't invest at all.  Some of the most successful closets out there belong to the famous and not so famous as they say. They are a blend of individuality, taste (which in some of their cases is natural-think Chloe Sevigny), quality (this is where vintage can come in, if you're not shopping the latest Chanel collection), and a sense of self.  One reason Chloe and other fashion icons become icons is that they stay true to the look and self.  They get it wrong sometimes but no one can accuse Chloe of not being authentic to her style. That brings me to step one:

Chloe in Vogue Russia, Feb 2002. 
1. Know thy self- what you will wear, when to push yourself, what looks good on your body type.
Vintage weight gain ad-http://www.wstudies.pitt.edu
2. Success in the vintage world is not just based on cash:   I truly have never believed that fashion success is based on money. You can learn to sew, curate your vintage, or find amazing designer pieces for very little cash.  Vintage helps give you a little personal satisfaction that no one can give or take away.  You found it, it suites you, and there may not be another-if there is it's not going to be easy to find.  Sometimes we pay a lot for it -sometimes we don't. (Side note: If you don't have time to shop it and have a stylist you normally pay -- I advise-please do seriously try to find it yourself sometimes, online or in the type of store that suits your shopping style).

Vintage YSL pin. $28 on Etsy via this shop.
3. Which leads me to this advice. Know thy shopping style: Don't go to a massive cluttered estate sale or shop if you get easily overwhelmed and cannot seem to edit.  Go to well edited online shops or savvy organized vintage shops in the flesh (these are sometimes pricey, but you sort of pay to not have to sift).  Etsy is a great way to get amazing pieces and find a curated shop to look through on a budget).

Vintage pile, image Sarara Vintage.
4. Look for pieces in very good to excellent condition. Avoid faded pieces or pieces with stains that show. Well done mends are okay. Older pieces like a 20s dress may have something here or there but make sure there is no fabric rot and that it is wearable with a good overall condition.

Accessocraft 1970s necklace. Not inexpensive. Type in Accessocraft on ebay or etsy for  some bargains!
5. If you have less experience with vintage, maybe start with vintage jewelry or accessories.  You get a lot of bang for your buck here. 1920s necklaces, vintage designer necklaces, and cuffs with simple silhouettes can be very chic. FOR ALL BUDGETS TRY: Trifari's larger pieces non designer, their designer vintage Diane Love line, Accessocraft jewelry, Cadoro, Kenneth Lane, 1920s beaded necklaces or deco designs or no name 60s-70s pieces...Be careful with bags make sure they have some of the shape and size for the season or that they are classic.  You can go super unique,  if that is your one vintage statement piece that you are wearing that day.

1960s Trifari necklace, available via my etsy shop $70. Trifari available on etsy from $10.
6. Try only one vintage piece per outfit to keep the look edited.  More than one item is reserved for advance users and usually only in the form of a vintage accessory plus one vintage garment.  So, if you wear a vintage dress then do new shoes etc. You don't want to look like you just stepped out of a time machine.

7. Check a fashion magazine and see what look is in this season. Look for similar vintage pieces.  This works especially well for those new to vintage.  I've been wearing vintage for years and years, so I tend to keep some basic styles like large vintage 70s jewelry -which is a staple that I wear often no matter what the trend as well.

Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 1960 or 2013?
8. Make something your thing. Once you have your practice with vintage in your wardrobe, choose a go to look. Maybe your go to look for events are vintage Alaia dresses. Maybe vintage fitted rocker tees are your thing. That is how some amazing fashion icons have worked it.  This radiates a sense of direction and a look that I feel is upscale.

9. Create a vintage mood board. Include cut outs and print looks from online. Include both past and present styles that appeal to you. Your fashion icons, vintage photographs of eras, colors, designers, everything that you feel represent a great look regardless of price.  Then edit that down to some looks to start your vintage search.

10. Sit down and make a list of the decades, finishes, fabrics, designs and colors that you admire. Keep them in mind while trying to find the best of those eras for your closet, whether they were a steal or not.

Sarara Vintage scan, Vogue April 1956 image.

11. Buy some vintage fashion magazines or photographs really look at them.

12. Educate yourself about the designers of the past and those still working that appeal to you. While the closet should not be just designers- they are celebrated for a reason.  Focus and snag the ones that appeal to your style. I love a good Bonnie Cashin coat for instance.  I also love Yves Saint Laurent.

13. Wear a vintage statement piece! You need to own a few of those, just in your face larger pieces of jewelry or interesting  patterns.  For instance, maybe you own one Paganne, Mr. Dino, Pucci, or non designer print dress.

1960s-70s Mod Paganne dress.

14. Go into stores you admire whether you can totally afford them or not.  Get some inspiration for your vintage shopping spree.

15.  Enjoy the hunt, revel in the find of that perfect fit and one of a kind piece.  We should have  fun with vintage. One well known fashion icon/model once said to me, "I like vintage because I don't have to worry about designer and making sure I say their name on the red carpet-it's vintage!"  That's part of the positive and fun for her.

SUMMARY-
This leads me to putting together a vintage friendly closet- Start by including:

1-2 Vintage dresses in the styles you gravitate towards based on your vintage magazine research.

4-5 Vintage pieces of jewelry that can be worn together or alone.

1 Great vintage coat in the iconic style of your favorite decade or by a designer you love.

2 Statement pieces that can be worn with basics: a large 70s necklace, a bold print with simple shoes and accessories, huge cuff, or interesting bag. My look is really built on this idea- I mostly use jewelry to do this or a cool vest/ jacket with a basic palette underneath.   Interesting jewelry maybe the only thing I besides basic colors that I wear during a day.  Maybe 4 stacked bracelets and a ring on the same hand/wrist and a neutral tee and jeans.

April 1956 Vogue image, scan Sarara Vintage.
Get 1 investment piece- whether you paid alot or not.  Something that will appreciate in value, is sought after, or iconic.  A Chanel bag, Nettie Rosenstein earrings, Yves Saint Laurent bag or necklace, 70s DVF wrap dress, Ceil Chapman dress....   If you are on a budget just put in the time, make this part of the hunt. I own a few of these investment pieces that I found by putting in effort but didn't break the piggy bank. After all this is part of the fun of building a vintage foundation. Hopefully, it will give you confidence and make getting dressed easier and less intimidating.

In the end your wardrobe must fit you and your lifestyle. That said have a piece in that closet which represents your dream day or night. Even if you don't wear it as much as your vintage cowboy boots! If you are invited to events and such -own it. Vintage is a great way to do that. Halston, Oscar de La Renta, Dior, as well as amazing 1920s-30s seamstress made dresses offer an amazing red carpet look. Hopefully, this list helps to get admirers of vintage on track or give one a better place to start. I honestly wear something vintage almost everyday-usually in the form of an old piece of jewelry.  It is part of my long love affair with the history of fashion.  I find pieces that make me happy at a variety of prices.  If you are on a budget the reality is, it takes more time to find those perfect pieces because you have to stick to a plan. However, I know it is very possible with a little effort.  In our society many times we are judged on what we wear.  In the end Scarlet, I just don't give a#&@^ that sometimes I get it right and other times wrong, as long I get it.


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