The Top North American Vintage Designs to Collect and Wear

Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art

When looking through my store and collection, I realized that North American designers are a building block for the vintage fashion lover. Living in New York and having the luxury of going into the city where the "American" style was built and continues to thrive also helps! In this country we most certainly have a history of fashion design all our own.  Of course we all covet the European designers like Chanel, YSL, Lanvin, Oscar, Dior, and others who were born outside the United States, which became American staples. Designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli, born in Italy altered "American" style forever.  Some of which like Oleg Cassini, french born became an American national as well as an institution. As hard as it was, I wanted narrow down the designers which have helped shape the history of the "American" look.  I did this by focusing on those born in the country working prior to 1979. You can see a full view of the entire history of the "American" look here at the Brooklyn Museum.  Without further ado...

                       Key Pieces From The North American Designers (Pre 1979) List:

1. Gilbert Adrian-Anything you can get-his dresses of course but these are a rare treat.  His glamourous style and pulse on American chic led to the creation of his couture "Old Hollywood" style.  The power shoulders, cut of the gowns...  However, my favorite example above, merges the chic and North American influence is this southwestern inspired dress by Gilbert circa 1948.  "Gilbert Adrian designed numerous ensembles for his friend and client, Millicent Rogers (1902-1953), yet few as personal as this dress. Adrian and his wife introduced Rogers to the American southwest by inviting her to Taos area in 1947, igniting a love of the region that lasted for the remainder of Rogers' life"(Met Museum).

2. Lilli Ann- I think it is safe to say if you have one piece of Lilli Ann, it should be a coat. Look for the styles with fur trim and a cinched waist or swing coat style. Her coats can be scored at various prices.  Indiecultvintage, Dear Golden, and Bustown Modern seem to always have the perfect Lilli Ann coat in stock during the fall/winter months.

Lilli Ann Coat, Vogue Nov. 1952. Photo Richard Avedon.

3. Bill Blass another icon has a lot of pieces on the market. Look for mixed patterns and fabrics.

1970s Bill Blass Gown. Image by Vintage Rosemond, rights reserved.

4. Geoffrey Beene a classic American designer and couture creator with a soft architectural yet timeless look. Try to find Beene pieces that exhibit a sporty yet modern structured feel or a softened yet dressy elements.

Geoffrey Beene evening gown. Museum of Fine Art, Boston, Image by MFA.

5. Bonnie Cashin's work is such a perfect example of American sporty chic. It is polished but easy to wear. Focus on her coats for sills and early bags for coach.  Prices range from around 100-900.
                           
          Bonnie Cashin for Sills coat and belt. 1973. Bonnie Cashin Cape, circa 1963. Met Museum Archive and Image.

Vintage Luxury, 1stdibs. Click here.

                           
Ceil Chapman was worn by stars such as Marilyn Monroe. Look for her evening, formal attire well draped dresses -these are her signature looks.

Couture Ceil Chapman dress. Image by Tomorrow's Envy.

Victor Costa known for bringing "cheaper" versions of couture and European designers to the states. Pick what you like, his vintage designs are also affordable. I like his work for Suzy Perette.

Lilli Diamond was at her best with the fitted bodice and plush skirt or the wiggle style dress.  Her little black dresses are where it is at! You can see examples in my Who is Lilli Diamond post.

Mr Dino is all about going bold or going home! Known for his mid century prints.  Look for one with a white or black base and geometric shapes.

Mr. Dino dress for sale here. Image by Story Threads.

Perry Ellis was famous for his sporty men's wear used by the likes of John Lennon and Bruce Lee.  He also made women's sport influenced clothing. Look for those easy wear shapes that aren't too dated in silhouette.

Leslie Fay became well known for a practical dress that was wearable and not overly expensive.  Look for just a simple shift dress for work.

                                       

Diane Von Furstenberg dress, circa 1970s. Sarara Vintage and Shary Connella image. See it here.

DVF is all about the wrap dress, she really invented the American wrap dress, it was light and sporty yet chic!  Go for a vintage Diane Von Furstenberg in a wonderful print.

DVF wrap dress, met museum image. 1975,76.

Halston for me would be two things, the Elsa Peretti perfume bottle necklaces and the easy wear draped dresses in various forms evoking a Greek Goddess. Some were made of chiffon, some casual fabrics. It's really all about the event dress in everything from sequin gowns to the one shoulder silhouette.  Look for rich colors for evening and the 70s beige and khaki for day wear versions.  See the Met Museum collection of Halston here.

Silk Halston dress, Met Museum Collection Image. 1978.

Tommy Hilfiger was working pre 1970s trafficking bellbottoms from the city to his hometown. He did not start his label officially until 1985. So he really should't be included I guess, but I wanted to mention his contribution to preppy "American" style.
Betsey Johnson was a bit of the junior sport look with dash of rock/punk thrown in!  Little short bold print tops and dresses- earlier pieces would be great for collectors as she dressed the likes of Twiggy during this phase.  See the Manhattan Vintage Show blog for their shoot on her clothing, which was the focus of the last MVS show in NYC.

Norma Kamali used different textiles to form her look which included interesting coat shapes and the 1980s shoulder pad look. She used velvet to make Edwardian inspired suits and sweatsuit material to make a long tailored jacket-which I own!

Donna Karan's garments are well tailored and full of basic staples for a working woman and or stylish busy mom. Her looks mix and match jersey dresses and such. Her experience with working for Anne Klein surely influenced her style as well. Look for her easy to wear vintage dresses of such textiles.

Anne Klein is seen as a sort of founder of "American" sport style with a comfortable sophisticated edge. She used separates such as blazers and her iconic lion logo design.  One can look for her lion on scarves and in her jewelry line. I do like the larger costume jewelry she produced in the 80s.

Calvin Klein was founded at the tail end of the 60s on minimal lines, cuts, and designs; but who could forget the designer jeans, underwear, and perfume ads!  Look for those early pieces such as the 70s signed jeans.

Ralph Lauren's contribution to the North American look is his play on the west, Native American designs, khaki, and woven textiles.  Early American textiles and plaids surely influenced his work.  Not to forget his use of preppy sporting styles inspired by riding and polo.  Look for styles seen on his vintage site: rlvintage, the southwestern sweaters and pieces to collect are all demonstrated there.

Bob Mackie is known for his artistic dazzled pieces used by the likes of Cher.  You can definitely see his love of costume design and one should look for pieces that demonstrate this flair when wearing and collecting.  Embrace the beads, feathers, and velvet. His pieces are becoming very collectible, see the auction record.

From the Ebony Fashion Fair Collection.  Leslie Hindman auction image. 1970s Bob Mackie Dress.

Mary McFadden's work reflects her use of art history, travel, and other cultures. Look for  gowns/dresses with wonderful textile designs, draping, embroidery, and prints.  Her Delphos Fortuny goddess inspired gowns are also collectible.

Jessica McClintock's line is known for bridal dresses and gowns. However, her vintage early hippie style Gunne Sax dresses are still worn today.

Anna Miller was sister to Maurice Rentner. Her line of 40s-50s dress are collected- so look for her early pieces. You can see an example of her label on the Vintage Fashion Guild vintage label resource.

Lilly Pulitzer was known and continues to be collected/worn for her colorful resort style.  You can find many of her not so shy vintage bright early floral dresses in vintage stores.

Henry Rosenfeld made great dresses for the everyday woman that were stylish yet affordable. Look for styles like the one seen in my shop, see image below. Now very collectible.

Late 40s-50s Henry Rosenfeld cotton dress. Sarara Vintage, Shary Connella photograph.

Nettie Rosenstein was an important high end designer with many aspects to her line including accessories, bags, clothing, perfume, and jewelry.  I adore her large whimsical jewelry and her bags in interesting shapes and fabrics.

Nettie Rosenstein sequin handbag. Sarara Vintage image, for sale here.

Malcom Starr gained popularity in part because of his gowns and evening attire. Try to find 1960s beaded or metallic gowns or country club style sets, picture Mad Men parties!

Claire McCardell is a founding mother of American ready to wear clothing, her line being popular in the 30s-50s. She has a special place here as her designs are considered the beginning of the "American" style. Casual chic would be her look. Honestly finding anything by her would be worth the time! The met museum has several examples of her work here.

Vera Maxwell is famous for those 50s suit coats and sets. See the fashionencyclopedia.com for an in depth article on her designs and history.

Elizabeth Hawes had higher end construction yet a ready to wear more affordable philosophy.  She was known for her glove designs as well. She focused on creating her own designs not knocking off Parisian styles, although in the beginning her career began doing just that. See  Bettina Berch's biography, Radical by Design: The Life and Style of Elizabeth Hawes for more information.  I enjoy her graphic colorful dresses. She was interested in a less stiff approach to fashion as what had been popular in the past.  The Fashion Institute of New York and the Met have some great examples. I love this lounge set I found on display in the Salon of Dames,  here.

Hawes lounge outfit, circa 1939. Image by private collector/Salon of Dames. 

Sally Victor is famous for her hats. Any hat of hers from the 30s-50s is collectible.  See the met archive of her whimsical architectural hats here.

Charles James is thought of as one of American's first couture designers. I would be over the moon, to own any of his couture ballgowns from the 40s-60s. I adore his geometric hems seen in his four leaf clover dresses and his overall artistic construction.  I would love a 40s piece such as the one at the met, below. This pinterest page has a great collection of images of his work.

Charles James dress, Met Museum image. See it here.

Norman Norell started his business in the 40s and the evening coats and glam dresses are great. He worked with simple lines too especially for his day looks. He had a flair for costume and in the 70s designs this really shows. I'd love to have a 70s evening coat by him.

I hope you enjoyed this post on collecting "American" vintage and the list of influential designers to look for and whay. If you have an American vintage designer piece, feel free to post images. For more information on the history of the "American look" see the Met Museum essay here.

*I may have forgotten one or two American designers from the 70s or before, so please comment about someone you like that may not be listed or add tips on where to find the ones here. Remember this post focuses on those who opened in the 70s or before having been born in the states as a practical way to edit the post down.