Norman Ambrose- Best new fashion designer with a Vintage Edge!

The Daily Beast Article Image. Photographer Kevin Tachman.

All fashion designers, as well as jewelry designers for that matter, inspire from history, vintage designs and various cultures. Norman Ambrose, a new designer of Turk descent, debut his Spring 2012 collection at Mercede's Benz Fashion week and I was inspired! He avoids just producing flat vintage copies and designs at the quality level of what one could expect from past tailoring techniques. He produces both ready-to- wear and couture. This knowledge of historical designs and process translates into a couture aesthetic, something which also attracts many to vintage clothing. His experience working at Versace and with tailors that had couture experience, no doubt has impacted as well as added to his natural eye for detail.  His designs so far have been influenced by the 1970s and the 20s-30s in particular, as one can surmise by eyeing his collections.   I can see his attention to tailoring and a woman's body is taken into consideration as well as creating a look. Anita Sarko discusses his inspiration and quality level in her article for newyorkshoppingdiary.com:


"Though quite vintage-y looking, Ambrose's confections somehow manage to avoid looking costume-y. He cites Faye Dunaway's 1970's/early '80's style and '...her strength of character, intellect, and bold femininity...' as his inspiration for daytime, whereas it's the 1920s, '...where comfort and over-the-top embellishment are focal points...' that influence the evening wear..........."(Sarko,Anita).


"It helps that, like Alexander McQueen and Azzedine Alaïa, Ambrose has some heavy-duty tailoring chops. 'I was mentored by a former pattern cutter who had been under Balenciaga and trained by a Blass tailor.' He explains. 'During my early career, I would spend weekends and evenings creating patterns and studying construction. It was a finishing school to my formal education. Today, I create many of the patterns for my new collections and custom orders, but an excellent team is essential'(Anita Sarko)". 

Norman Ambrose. Fall 2011. Press image. Norman Ambrose, MAO.

His fall 2011 collection was a blend of historic quality and design with a current feel. The clothing above basically is today's woman doing Faye Dunaway circa 1967-70 who is taking on a 1930s aesthetic post -Bonnie and Clyde (1967). It's like being in the vintage fashion matrix.... Only instead of Keanu Reeves in black you have Alexander Mcqueen in a mix of 18th century clothing and his accessories.  I digress sorry..... I love his process, which is clearly well thought out.  He doesn't just look at vintage but sees and feels it. He seems to take in what was iconic in an era or special style wise about a leading lady, he then makes impeccable and wearable clothing.   This aesthetic appeals to the vintage girl!

Faye Dunaway. Vintage ad.

My first impression of his work was that it was sort of as if Adrian Greenberg aka Gilbert Adrian, was reincarnated working now with today's iconic woman in mind but remembering his past love of the silver screen diva while throwing in a little of us all. This feeling is still holding true, as I look at his various designs in anticipation of the next collection. 
As we see both young actors such as, Jenna Ushkowitz who wore the Ambrose dress below, and hollywood taking notice we will begin to see more of his evening dresses on the red carpet where they were born to be.   This stunning Spring 2012 evening gown embodies early 30s grace and style. 


It is fitting that he has been so inspired by the 30s as of lately. In the 30s-40s as the nation left the 20s decadence behind and went into war, through depression and humbler times, fashion was bigger than ever on the screen. Such bling and glamour appealed to women.  They longed for such looks then and as we go through an unstable economy today, such glorious flowing dresses once more remind us of the good times or the dream of those moments.   A girl can dream right? 

Photo credit: Juan Rico/Fame and WENN.com

Finally, my personal pick as an anthropology nerd, fashion lover and vintage fiend: The Tunisian turquoise beaded jacket, click here to see it and a full selection of images from his show. Another favorite reminds me of some of my 70s tunic jackets, below. You see this lovely sheen to his 60s 70s inspired pieces from Spring 2012. Check out: www.normanambrose.com for more!


         

1970s tunic, Metallic Embroidery. Sarara Vintage Image.

Long Tunic Jacket, 1970s Metallic embroidery. Sarara Vintage Image.