Marie Antoinette's Shoes: Hated Fashionista and Stylish Icon

Marie Antoinette's Shoes:
From riding horses in men's style pants to using clothing to shock others; Marie's fashion sense actually may have caused her demise. She was a woman who made some mistakes, but was actually ahead of her time in other ways. She wanted to be comfortable at a time when noble women wore not so comfy clothing.

In Caroline Weber's the Queen of Fashion: What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution, she discusses the fashionista's gowns, dressmaking and her life. Fashion is always linked to politics and culture and in this case it is no less central. She was taught or forced at a young age to be decadent and this extreme display led the public, who was suffering, to take matters into their own hands.

Joseph Ducreux, oil Painting from the Boston Museum of Fine Arts - Portrait of Marie Antoinette 18th century.


Caroline Weber is an associate professor for the Department of French and Romance Philology at Columbia University, New York. While this book came out in 2007, with the sale of Marie's shoes for $57,000 in France last weekend, it deserves another look. I chose this book out of the many historical reference you can find because of its discussion of historic antique fashion.
The Washington Post book review states:


"When her carriage first crossed over from her native Austria into France, fourteen-year-old Marie Antoinette was taken out, stripped naked before an entourage, and dressed in French attire to please the court of her new king. For a short while, the young girl played the part.
But by the time she took the throne, everything had changed. In Queen of Fashion, Caroline Weber tells of the radical restyling that transformed the young queen into an icon and shaped the future of the nation. With her riding gear, her white furs, her pouf hairstyles, and her intricate ballroom disguises, Marie Antoinette came to embody—gloriously and tragically—all the extravagance of the monarchy"(Washington Post).


THE SHOES:
The auctioneers billed them as being worn by her during the Fête de la Fédération (a celebration of the one year anniversary of the Fall of the Bastille) of 1790, they also remain alluring due to her persona. Such a persona written about and discussed in Sofia Coppola film, although loosely but what fun! Not to mention during the public destruction of many pieces in her wardrobe make this interesting. They are white silk featuring little pleats in the front in a size 36, reported as being worn with white gown and feather/ribbon headpiece.

                     Images reported by Tell.La-Via vivelareine on tell.la- See link to pics in post title.

18th Century Fashion Antique Clothing References:
Costume Close-Up: Clothing Construction and Pattern, 1750-1790.
Linda Baumgarten (Author)

Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700 - 1915.
Sharon Sadako Takeda (Author), Kaye Durland Spilker (Author), John Galliano (Author)

Seventeenth-Century Women's Dress Patterns: Book 1 (Womens Dress Patterns).
Jenny Tiramani (Editor), Susan North (Editor)

Seventeenth and Eighteenth-Century Fashion in Detail.
Avril Hart (Author), Susan North (Author)

TONiO and TAXCO: Antonio Pineda Mexican Modernist

Credit: 1950's image. Museum of International Folk Art Exhibit

TONO and Antonio Pineda
I recently found this amazing rare Large Tono pendant and necklace. This indeed is the famous mexican modernist Tono who worked so much with Piedra Negra. The large abstract modernist star shape features various stones such as Malachite, Lapis, Turquoise and Tiger's Eye. I love the wonderful hinged hook and handmade chain. I am a fan of Taxco chunky silver jewelry. I try to find pieces by important designers as well as stand out unique Taxco jewerly. This piece is not by Antonio Pineda as I initially thought because he signed his Silver by Tono among other configurations- (see The Little Book of Mexican Silver Trade and Hallmarks.
Bille Hougart).

This necklace now in the shop is however by Tono also a well known Mexican Modernist. It is signed Tono with a flourished tilde, Hecho in Mexico, Taxco Sterling 925 in a circle and the assigned inventory number. Circa 1960's. Looks great on and is a very fashionable necklace. Collector's dream piece by Tono. Pre 1970's because it has no TC mark. Also no Eagle.

Antonio Pineda Necklace and Image credit- Seduction: The Art of Mexican Modernist Antonio Pineda, a traveling exhibition opening at the Museum of International Folk Art

ANTONIO PINEDA:
Returning to the subject of Antonio Pineda, whose jewelry I adore as well, his pieces are pure art.Antonio was famous for his flair for the modern and traditional Mexican motifs. He was the subject of a 2008-09 exhibition at UCLA's Fowler Museum. He was born in 1919 in a traditional Taxco family. He founded an amazing workshop and was important to the Mexican Modernist Movement.


The Los Angeles Times writer Dennis McLellan discusses Tono's experience:
"At age 11 he had a brief apprenticeship in the Taxco silver jewelry workshop of U.S. designer and entrepreneur William Spratling, who had moved to the area in the late 1920s.
Pineda later apprenticed with Mexico City painter and silversmith Valentin Vidauretta and returned to Taxco in 1936.A major turning point in his career came in 1944 when his work was included in an exhibition at the California Palace of the Legion of Honor in San Francisco.
Richard Gump, heir to the city's exclusive department store Gump's, purchased the 160 pieces in Pineda's collection and offered to sell his designs exclusively. Other partnerships followed in Mexico, Los Angeles, New York and Chicago.He was involved in mining and worked in sales and management at Spratling's workshop before opening his own silver jewelry workshop in 1939. At his peak, Pineda employed nearly 100 other silversmiths"(L.A. Times article/Obituary, Dennis McLellan).

You can find more about the history of his signatures and work on these sites: http://www.925-1000.com/mx_antonio_marks.html

http://newsroom.ucla.edu/portal/ucla/fowler-museum-at-ucla-to-present-52141.aspx


Available for purchase at:
Necklace Images property of and by Sarara Vintage.

Sarara Vintage shop on etsy- see the link in the post title to go directly to the listing.

Henri Bendel Fashion and Costume Sketch Collection

Image: "Henri Bendel Fashion and Costume Sketch Collection. Sketch HB 001-34. Day gown, Summer 1912.", 1912. Fashion sketch, 12.25 x 8.5 in (31.1 x 21.6 cm). Brooklyn Museum


The Brooklyn museum has a great collection of fashion sketches called, the Henri Bendel collection. These fashion sketches caught my eye as a vintage lover and collector. This type of source is great for study of eras and styles. Other sources such as old ads, sketches, patterns and other archives are all key alternative to textbooks. This collection is impressive at over 11,255 images ranging from 1912-1939. The Fashion archives itself continues until 1950. For a fashion student or collector; the Fashion and Costume Collection at the museum library is fundamental. This is a perfect span of time to learn from! As a prominent store for women's fashions the sketches show some important designs for each era.





Henri Bendel: A Short History
The sketches are in the name of the Henri Bendel firm itself. If you are thinking, hey I know that name you're right. The very store still exists in NYC now at 712 Fifth Avenue near 56th Street. Henri Bendel founded an upscale women's store in 1913 on West 57th street in NYC, which all began with a millinery shop in Greenwich village. Henri was important in terms of the history of fashion for a few reasons: "Bendel's was the first to introduce the young designer Coco Chanel to the United States, the first to stage a fashion show in New York, and the first to design a complete wardrobe of exclusive fragrances to suit the many facets of a woman's mood and lifestyle" (http://www.nycago.org/Organs/NYC/html/BendelStore.html).

Image: "Henri Bendel Fashion and Costume Sketch Collection. Sketch HB 24-03, 1917.", 1917. Printed material. Brooklyn Museum.

The Collection:
With over 11,255 images they could hardly make them available online. However, the collection online shows looks from 1912, 1913 and a few from the late teens. It skips over to the 1930's and the Elsa Schiaparelli designs which due to copyright you can only few the thumbnail sketch. In terms of Schiaparelli, being one of the most important fashion designers, it is a pleasure to admire her looks on paper. Thus, if you would like to see the span of the collection, research in the archive would have to be viewed on site in the library. The sketches represent all the garments made by or imported by the company some of which include many famous french designers such as Lanvin and Chanel. The last public exhibit I could find mention of was part of the collection shown in April of 1944.


Examples of Styles:

Classic Box Coat. Worn with tailored skirt. Image: "Henri Bendel Fashion and Costume Sketch Collection. Sketch HBI 11, 1912.", 1912. Printed material. Brooklyn Museum.

We see the draping and change in silhouette at the end of the Edwardian era going into the 1920's. Image: "Henri Bendel Fashion and Costume Sketch Collection. Sketch HB 28-01, 1918.", 1918. Printed material. Brooklyn Museum.

Wonderful example of an Edwardian Gown. Image: "Henri Bendel Fashion and Costume Sketch Collection. Sketch HB 004-23 1913.", 1913. Printed material. Brooklyn Museum.

Homage to Christian Dior's Spring 2011 Runway Retro Extravaganza

I wanted to take a moment to pay tribute to Dior's Spring 2011 line. No one really encompasses that 50's elegant look like Dior, let's face it he was at the top of the game in the 1950's! It's only fair that his brand and John Galliano should take on the trend for this spring/summer like no one else. From the hair and makeup to the model's movements the show was a retro trip (circa 1940-50) Enjoy!

Christian Dior Spring 2011:

Images Runway press photographs of the Christian Dior Spring 2011 Collection.

Fashion Institute of Technology - Fashion Exhibitions this Year: 2012

This is an insane list of wonderful fashion exhibits this year around the globe.  There are some vintage or older fashions included.  Here are just a few from Fit's list.

Charles James, "Butterfly" dress detail, 1954, for Mr.s John V. Farwell III, Chicago History Museum. Fit Museum website image.

Fashion Institute of Technology - Fashion Exhibitions this Year: 2012 : http://www.fitnyc.edu/12041.asp

Charles James: Genius Deconstructed explores the history of couture fashion designer Charles James and why nearly 40 years after his death he is still a relevant force in the fashion world. On view at the Chicago History Museum through April 16, 2012.

The Cult of Beauty: The Victorian Avant-Garde, 1860–1900 through June 17, 2012 at the Legion of Honor in San Francisco, showcases the entirety of the Aesthetic Movement’s output, celebrating the startling beauty and variety of creations by masters as diverse as artists Dante Gabriel Rossetti, James McNeill Whistler, and Edward Burne-Jones and designers E.W. Godwin, William Morris and Christopher Dresser.  The Legion of Honor is the only U.S. venue on the world tour that includes the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and the Musée d’Orsay in Paris.

The Roaring Twenties: Heels, Hemlines and High Spirits focuses on the wardrobe and widening horizons of the "New Woman" and looks at how the myriad influences of the period such as cinema, jazz clubs, and world travel influenced the shape of fashionable footwear. At the Bata Shoe Museum through June 2012.

Grace Kelly: Style Icon traces the actresses life and features dresses from such films as The Swan as well as the gown she wore to accept her Oscar in 1955. The exhibition also explores the evolution of her style as Princess Grace of Monaco, from her extensive wedding trousseau to her haute couture gowns of the 1960s and 1970s by her favourite couturiers Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy and Yves St Laurent. At the Bendigo Art Gallery in Australia from March 11 to June 17, 2012. From March 21 until August 12, 2012, MoMu in Antwerp, Belgium presents the exhibition Living Fashion: Women's Daily Wear 1750-1950 from the Jacoba de Jonge collection, an exhibition about the influence of fashion on the everyday lives of middle-class women in Western Europe between 1750 and 1950. As Americans observe the 150th anniversary of the beginning of the Civil War, the Kent State University Museum presents On the Home Front: Civil War Fashions and Domestic Life, an exhibit about the material circumstances and domestic life during the Civil War and in the years that followed. Far from being a simple trivial diversion during such a critical period, fashion provides a unique window into the lived experience of Americans who despite being far from the battlefields were deeply and immediately touched by the conflict. On view until August 26, 2012.

The Gorgeous Designs of Gilbert Adrian (1903-1959)

Joan Crawford in Gilbert Adrian Gown. From the film The Women,1939.

We're off to see the wizard, the wonderful wizard of OZ.... Gilbert Adrian ( Adrian Adolph Greenberg) was the creative director for the film The Wizard of Oz  and was one of the most important costume designers to have ever created. He designed for Greta Garbo and many other famous ladies of the silver screen, such as Jean Harlow and of course Joan Crawford-who could forget those shoulders. He got his start in film reportedly after Natacha Rambova, movie art director and wife of star Rudolph Valentino hired him to design for two of her films.

Dinner at Eight, Jean Harlow. MGM image.



His designs for MGM were amazing and set trends that rippled throughout the fashion industry of the time. He draped fabric on the bodies of women like butter and made their best assets shine. His peak was in the 1930's and 40's. He did film design/costumes for around 200 films. Born in Connecticut and trained in France, he worked in the industry and ran a studio in L.A. for ten years. He retired to Brazil in the 1950's... Ah, a man after my own heart.

Photographer: unknown,Marlene Dietrich in Gilbert Adrian, 1946.



His innovating draping and groundbreaking elegant designs are probably best encompassed by this wonderful taffeta gown, found in the museum collection at FIDM see the image below. He also used everyday fabrics and unconventional ones, such as gingham for ball gowns. He was known not only for costumes and gowns, but also for strong fitted suits with shoulder pads, pencil skirts and everyday wear. One look at the gown below and its easy to see why his dresses and suits are sought after today by vintage collectors.

Gilbert Adrian. Evening gown.1948. Gift of Bob Diamond. FIDM Museum Collection. Photo by Brian Sanderson. Copyright FIDM Museum. See other examples housed at the Met:here.

Read more on his life and see more examples of his work in- Adrian: Silver Screen to Custom Label. Christian Esquevin. The Met Museum also houses various examples of his work: Met Spotlight on Gilbert Adrian.

Vintage Statement Pieces I'd Grab if I had a Time Machine-Greta Garbo's Headdress

WOW- Can you say Hollywood Diva? This look combined with Garbo's unique appeal are a alluring combo! The art deco chic design of the headdress and sparkle just takes me away. Greta Garbo was perhaps the most popular star to ever come out of Metro Goldwyn-Mayer. The Swedish born actress who lived to be 85 was given the honorary Oscar and produced a lifetime of amazing work to behold. Believe it or not her first film was Swedish after which MGM signed her in 1925! It's a hard look to pull off but Garbo makes this deco head gear a dream find for our vintage time machine.

Greta Garbo, 1938. Image by Metro Goldwyn-Mayer.

Who is Lilli Diamond? Get that 50s Hollywood Glam Look

Lilli Diamond, 1960's Fashion ad.

If you collect or sell vintage designs, than you have probably run across a Lilli Diamond frock. I had the pleasure of selling the most divine Lilli Diamond little black dress to a Fashion editor in London, I hope it is having a good life! I am sure it has been to at least one event again!! I think Lilli Diamond's black dresses, in particular, are a great go to for a 1950s hollywood look.
Well, just who is Lilli Diamond?

Lilli began her career in Los Angeles California in 1951, specializing in evening wear such as prom dresses and gowns. Her materials of choice included lace, feathers, and sequins which added to her unique design perspective. She continued to design into the late 1970's.

1970s Dot Print Lilli Diamond Dress. Sarara Vintage, image by Shary Connella.

The style that she is most known for is the fitted bodice and hoop style bottom. She loved pastels and  juxtaposition. My dress was created with a pale pastel lining under a black lace bodice. The cut was absolutely amazing! She knew how to design a dress for a woman's body. She also did great wiggle dresses, which narrow at the bottom near the knees creating an hour glass figure.  They were said to make you wiggle when you walked. In the 1970's her dresses went longer but she still used her signature embellishments. Her cocktail and evening wear was worn by the important women of her time.

Sarara Vintage image of 1950s-60s Lilli Diamond lace dress.

Lilli Diamond, image and dress at Museum of Florida History. Worn by Margie Mixson, wife of the Lieutenant Governor, Wayne Mixson, wore this gown to the first inaugural ball of Governor Bob Graham in 1979.


If you are looking for a great 1950's dress or really a great vintage little black dress -Lilli Diamond would be where I would begin. What I love about Lilli's dresses, especially her black dresses are that they always have a tailored eye and embellishments to make them unique. The central aspect to many of them is their sort of old hollywood flair. One would easily fit in at a Hollywood film premier or party.

Lilli Diamond dress, Vivavintageclothing.com

Lilli Diamond Dress, 1970's. Thegoddessroom.net

Shrimpton Couture, image. 1950's sequin Lilli Diamond dress.

Vintage Statement Pieces I'd Grab if I had a Time Machine- These Earrings. Harper's Bazaar 1968.

These earrings are intense but so amazing and chunky. The modern white block of flower saying so much about the designs of the era. This is from the cover of the May, 1968 Harper's Bazaar.

Eye Candy Picks: Top Online Vintage Shops for the Fashion Savvy

I love vintage, obviously-- the construction, history and unique designer aesthetic that is attained by adorning oneself with great pieces. Such pieces are unique, well tailored and iconic whether made by a designer or unknown seamstress. I love to explore stores and estate collections, however let's be honest there are some amazing online collections to be perused beside my own of course:) I complied a list with the most fashionable vintage, a true feast for the eyes. These are the online sources for vintagistas -(I am over the word fashionista but had to do it)! These fill their online collections with pieces from famous wearers, designer, couture, unknown but wonderful pieces all with a mind towards what is currently fashionable as well. Enjoy the voyage.



1. Shrimpton Couture-http://www.shrimptoncouture.com/main/index.php is so lux and a wonderful mix of price points. The owner has an amazing eye for fashion and design. Pure EYE CANDY. The site is like reading an online Vogue magazine spread! Shrimpton has mostly designer and trendy era pieces, but includes a few reworked items as stated. Great sales as well.

Image property of Shrimpton Couture. 1960's Mollie Parnis Set.

2. The Frock-is a great online collection of both historical and celebrity owned pieces with proof of authenticity. For the true collector and lover of fashion.

Stunning Liza Minelli owned French Ostrich Cape and Collection. Image property of the Frock.


















3. C. Madeleines-http://www.cmadeleines.com/-is very trendy but with a focus on designer inventory such as Chanel. I cannot say enough about the Chanel archive.

4. 1stdibs-http://fashion.1stdibs.com/avl_search.php?ftype=Vintage for a wide range of amazing real life storefronts who have chosen to exhibit their goods virtually, such as RareVintage.

Image property of Vintage Textile. 1924 beaded dress.


5. Vintage Textile-http://www.vintagetextile.com/1920s_to_1930s.htm is wonderful and has a well organized selection of era pieces chosen for their style and quality. The Victorian and 20's section is divine.













6. Past Perfect Vintage-http://pastperfectvintage.com/the20sand30s.htm Is great for 1920's era pieces at a good price point.

7. Don't miss Chelsea Girl- http://www.chelsea-girl.com/clothing-for-sale/estate-jewelry/ which has a really wearable earthy hippie feel to its selection. Great fun all around!

8.Antique Dress- http://www.antiquedress.com/ Great flair for the dramatic and costume. Fun celebrity owned pieces stocked there!

9.Dorothea's Closet Vintage- http://www.dorotheasclosetvintage.com/1920s.html Wonderful selection of all eras. Fun aesthetic and approach to the website.

10. Vintageous - http://vintageous.com/sarmi.htmI was impressed by their attention to complete collections. Currently they are featuring 120 UNWORN Sarmi gowns and cocktail dresses from the estate of Leonard Gold.

11. Millcrest Vintage. For Evening, Wedding and Dress all around- http://www.millcrestvintage.com/vintage-prom-dresses-c-12.html

12. Couture Allure: http://www.coutureallure.com/collections/dresses-1 They have great dresses from the 1950's among other pieces in a good price range. This allows you to stock the closet in some daily wear pieces.

13. Etsy sellers: Great ones like FabGabs, Dear Golden, The Deeps are only a few off the top of my head. I will compile a separate list of just the wonderful etsy sellers. I am working on this now:) Until then Explore. Etsy has great vintage from various sellers!

14. Last but not least: Viva Vintage Clothing: http://www.vivavintageclothing.com/1930s1940svintagedresses/ A great assortment of eras, wearable pieces and great prices! BUT don't miss the jewelry there are some wonderful finds there!!!